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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 12:06 am 
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SteveSmith wrote:
Clay, you make a good point. If I drive the edge of the dish I could just use a standard motor. I might be able to build a skeleton frame to sit over the downdraft table when needed and not interfere with it's normal function ... hmmmmmmmmmm. I think I'll look at motors.


Steve, why buy a motor? I mount the dish on a lazy-susan bearing, then mount the bearing on plywood, then mount it on the drill press table. I use a roller blade wheel mounted on a shaft to turn it.
Image Image

Works well and speed is adjustable.

Bob



These users thanked the author Bob Shanklin for the post (total 5): ernie (Thu Apr 20, 2017 7:24 am) • pat macaluso (Wed Apr 19, 2017 2:51 pm) • Alex Kleon (Wed Apr 19, 2017 6:00 am) • SteveSmith (Wed Apr 19, 2017 5:40 am) • Clinchriver (Wed Apr 19, 2017 4:41 am)
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 7:23 am 
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I've also seen dishes powered with a 1/2 variable speed drill motor.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 7:31 am 
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Hi bob . could you post a pic with the roller blade assembly mounted in the drill press? also what size wheel to purchase ? length and width of shaft ?? .I want to build one ! .At my age it/s hard to drive a manual bus ?? thank you


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 1:37 pm 
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That's a pretty cool rig, Bob!
I like the simplicity and directness of the design. Low cost is a definite plus too.

Ernie,
You could probably use a forstner bit with rubber bands stretched around the sides of the bit in place of the roller blade assembly. The rubber bands should provide enough friction to turn the dish.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 1:54 pm 
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Some thing like this

https://www.zoro.com/3m-expanding-drum- ... fgodXwkFVg

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 2:13 pm 
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I do have a number of rubber sanding discs for the drill press
. I have a lazy susan in the bsmt. I will try it .thanks for the suggestion ken.I appreciate it!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 4:24 pm 
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Bob Shanklin wrote:
SteveSmith wrote:
Clay, you make a good point. If I drive the edge of the dish I could just use a standard motor. I might be able to build a skeleton frame to sit over the downdraft table when needed and not interfere with it's normal function ... hmmmmmmmmmm. I think I'll look at motors.


Steve, why buy a motor? I mount the dish on a lazy-susan bearing, then mount the bearing on plywood, then mount it on the drill press table. I use a roller blade wheel mounted on a shaft to turn it.
Image Image

Works well and speed is adjustable.

Bob


This is brilliant! And so easy to put together. I think we need a new thread for "1001 Uses for a Drill Press....other than Drilling".

-Tony


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 9:16 pm 
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Ernie, here is a pic of the wheel on its shaft. The wheel is about 2.375", it was bigger but my son wore it down when he was a child. :lol: I removed the bearings and used a 3" 1/4 20 screw for the shaft. I mounted the shaft with a lock-nut to a piece of 3/4" ply that I cut out with my rosette cutter to fit tight in the center of the wheel, and epoxied it in.
Image


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 8:04 am 
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Thanks bob for the pic .Does the rubber wheel abrade the particleboard or mdf radius dish ? I thought maybe I would put a rubber coating against the rim of my radius dish sander., a Bicycle inner tube or some spray rubber adhesive ?. My drill press has 18 speeds and can go down to 220 rpm. I will try the rubber sander first and then the skateboard wheel idea.thanks again for posting the pic .It is much appreciated


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 9:31 am 
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ernie wrote:
Thanks bob for the pic .Does the rubber wheel abrade the particleboard or mdf radius dish ? I thought maybe I would put a rubber coating against the rim of my radius dish sander., a Bicycle inner tube or some spray rubber adhesive ?. My drill press has 18 speeds and can go down to 220 rpm. I will try the rubber sander first and then the skateboard wheel idea.thanks again for posting the pic .It is much appreciated


CA glue does a great job to harden mdf. It's great for making templates made of mdf more durable, so soaking the rim of the dish should do the trick if you are worried about wear.



These users thanked the author mountain whimsy for the post (total 2): ernie (Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:24 pm) • bcombs510 (Fri Apr 21, 2017 10:15 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:36 pm 
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ernie wrote:
Thanks bob for the pic .Does the rubber wheel abrade the particleboard or mdf radius dish ?

No it doesn't abrade the dish or wheel, Ernie.

Bob



These users thanked the author Bob Shanklin for the post (total 2): ernie (Fri Apr 21, 2017 8:31 pm) • Clinchriver (Fri Apr 21, 2017 2:02 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 9:36 pm 
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I'm traveling so I can't check yet, but I think the old belt off my bandsaw will fit on the rim of my dish. I just got a great deal on a floor stand drill press and will be setting up the powered dish for my next build soon. I'll let you know how it works out.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 6:52 am 
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For the folks that already have this turntable style working, do you use the radius dish during brace glueup as well? If so, how do you keep it steady? Do you take the lazy Susan bracket off of it somehow?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:36 am 
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In the past I've profiled the rim with a block plane before driving the darn bus. Right now I'm trying come up with a way to profile a set of very curly Narra that doesn't like my block plane no matter how sharp I get it with an 8000 grit wet stone. I can take very, very shallow paper thin passes but that kind defeats the purpose of using a plane (speed). I'm interested to see how some of you may be dealing with this problem. I thought of building a dedicated mold with the taper front to back built in that I could run a Japanese flush cut saw along. Anyone have a better idea?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 10:41 am 
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After the rims and blocks are glued up I mark the profile using the radius dishes then I cut close to the line with an oscillating saw. After the linings are in I clean up with a block plane then sand in rhe dish. If I couldnt plane I suppose I would go straight to sanding and thats where a motorized dish would be really useful.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 12:18 pm 
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fingerstyle1978 wrote:
In the past I've profiled the rim with a block plane before driving the darn bus. Right now I'm trying come up with a way to profile a set of very curly Narra that doesn't like my block plane no matter how sharp I get it with an 8000 grit wet stone. I can take very, very shallow paper thin passes but that kind defeats the purpose of using a plane (speed). I'm interested to see how some of you may be dealing with this problem. I thought of building a dedicated mold with the taper front to back built in that I could run a Japanese flush cut saw along. Anyone have a better idea?

I do the same, try a higher angle on the cutting edge of the blade, 10 or 15 degrees extra, don't have to grind it a lot at all.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 12:54 pm 
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Maybe it's a given in this thread but I assume most are doing this first? http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=8117&hilit=side+profile

Poor man's CAD.
It was a revelation to me.
A little pattern routing and accurate locating during bending and the sides are essentially done.
cutting blocks at the back angle before gluing them in helps too.
Fogive me if these are assumed already.



These users thanked the author david farmer for the post: Clinchriver (Sat Apr 22, 2017 3:41 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 3:41 pm 
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david farmer wrote:
Maybe it's a given in this thread but I assume most are doing this first? http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=8117&hilit=side+profile

Poor man's CAD.
It was a revelation to me.
A little pattern routing and accurate locating during bending and the sides are essentially done.
cutting blocks at the back angle before gluing them in helps too.
Fogive me if these are assumed already.


Great idea, I used poster board to make an accurate template.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 11:18 pm 
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No need to drive the bus if you make a flat top guitar. Or if the back is only curved front to back it is a different process.

I made some radiused rims and although they turned out looking nice, I prefer them flat. Except for the angle from mid upper bout to the neck on the top.

When I did make the radiused rim, I made my mold an inside style, like a violinmaker and radiused it. So imagine a guitar body made from MDF with cutouts for the neck and tail block. First I put the tail and neck block in the cutouts with some weak glue, Like a violin, then shaped them to their outside shape and flushed them top and back. Bend and glue the sides to the blocks which will be to the shape of the perimeter. Then using a block plain, I trimmed the sides to follow the mold radius. It was easy. Then I removed a layer from the top and glued kerfing followed by block plane trimming. Then I did the same with the back. I then took out the middle mold section and it collapses so I can remove it. The rim (garland) is radiused to a standard shape. It is a violinmaker thing.

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