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I'm ready to glue the neck to the body. The FP is on and the mortise and tenon are prepared such that there is NO clearance between them...well, maybe a thou or 2. I've never glued such a large M&T and want to make sure I do it correctly. Everything lines up and the angles project as planned and now I have some questions before I make the next move which is somewhat irreversible.

1) I'm considering HHG or FG for this operation...any contrary opinions or better glues? Does the water content of such glues matter...or is Epoxy better?

2) Am I correct to assume that the cheeks get glued as well?

3) Is the clearance, or lack thereof sufficient... or will it all get wiped away...or not seat properly?

TIA

BTW...My camera broke so I can't show any pics for now...sorry.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Hey.... No Pics, No Answer!

Because, I don't know!

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Thanks for the bump, Waddy!

We now have only 3 days to resolve all questions!!!

Don't make me have to "see someone else"!!!

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

I use epoxy on my Model 1s and also epoxy seal and glue the endgrain to endgrain of the heel to the body to prevent movement there in the future.

[QUOTE=Rick Turner]I use epoxy on my Model 1s and also epoxy seal and glue the endgrain to endgrain of the heel to the body to prevent movement there in the future.[/QUOTE]

There you go JJ and you have the new batch of West Systems too.

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Ann Arbor Guitars

That's what I would have done, if I had known.  

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Thanks, Rick...do you also use the same epoxy to glue down the FB extension?

Last question, for now...any opinion regarding the M&T clearance?

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

JJ,

If I am not too late, may I suggest you hold off laminating the neck in till you get your headstock overlay installed and tuner holes drilled.

Epoxy sounds like a good plan as you won't ever need to do a neck reset on your LP. Titebond would also work.

JJ, you don't need any glue on the cheeks of your neck/body joint. As for the neck extension -- isn't most of your neck extension fixed to your neck tenon so there must be little if any fretboard to glue?

AZ...you're not too late. I have the fretted FB glued to the neck (West Systems epoxy) and was just getting psyched to glue up the neck while waiting for some inlay for the headplate. I also need to complete the binding on the cutaway side before anyway. That's another question that I'm planning to offer.

There is a significant amount of FB extension that needs to be glued and that will represent a considerable gluing surface area.

Actually, I don't know how I'd prevent glue from getting to the cheeks since it's a natural place for the glue to squeezeout.

The more I think about this, the more I favor epoxy since it will not cause any wood swelling (no water) and theoretically should allow the joint to slide together more easily.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

JJ, I don't think you will need any glue under the extension for the same reason you suggest for the cheeks...you will get some squeeze out there as well.

My Model 1 fingerboard kind of floats above the top, so I don't have to glue it down to the top.   It's already glued sufficiently to the tenon.   I put black felt in under the fingerboard there, and it kind of disappears into a sort of violin look. One less set of surfaces to have to fit, too, and given the arc of my tops, that's a bit of a deal. Also we don't tilt the neck back, so the step gives us the right clearance for the Schaller tunamatic bridge.   

For the record, titebond works great too....