http://dickeyguitars.com/dickeyguitars/JigsTools.html
Gobars are great. Here is a link to some other jigs and tools. Good luck building, have a ton of fun.
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| Go-Bars for top and back glueup? http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=18390 |
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| Author: | Jeff Highland [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
Hi Guys, Finaly getting myself geared up to use go-bars and have a radius dish on the way from Tracey. Besides gluing on braces does anyone use go bars for glueing on the completed top and back to the rims? Pictures of the way you do it would be good. thanks Jeff |
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| Author: | Hesh [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
Here you go Jeff: |
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| Author: | Wayne Clark [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
I just closed up a box today: Attachment: body_3_1.JPG I use my go-bar deck whenever I can. |
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| Author: | Terence Kennedy [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
I've tried all the methods and the go bars are the way to fly in my book. Go for it. Terry |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
Jeff, Using my go bar deck for this works very well for me. I'm on dial-up, so uploading photos is a pain. I'll just describe it, and I think you'll get it. The plate I'm gluing on goes DOWN on the dished workboard, after applying the glue to the rim and taping the plate in place with a few pieces of masking tape. That way, there is very even clamping pressure all around the whole perimeter of the plate being glued. In a sense, the dished workboard itself becomes the caul, clamping from the bottom. When gluing the back on, which I do first, I apply the glue to the rim, place the back on, tape it in place in a few spots, flip it over onto the dished workboard, then put the go bars directly onto the linings on the top side of the rim. No need for a caul or cauls. I have rubber tipped fiberglass go bars (like Wayne's), and they don't dent the linings. Actually, I put one or two go bars in the middle of the back before putting all the other go bars in place, to hold the back down against the dished workboard. I think this helps maintain the intended back radius (which is, of course, matched by the dished workboard I'm using) as it's being glued to the sides. When gluing on the top, it's the exact same procedure only now the go bars are placed onto the back (around the perimeter, over the linings). I can't put go bars in the middle of the top now, as I did with the back, because the back is already glued on and is therefore in the way, but one of these years I might install a small vacuum clamp in the middle of the dish I use for gluing tops on, to hold the top down and help maintain the intended radius. If any of that is not clear, let me know. |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
BTW, I'd say I use less than half the number of go bars as you see in Todd Stock's photo. Again, since the plate I'm gluing on goes DOWN on the dished workboard, I know I'm getting good, even pressure all around the perimeter, so I only use the number of go bars I feel I need for enough total clamping pressure. |
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| Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
http://dickeyguitars.com/dickeyguitars/JigsTools.html Gobars are great. Here is a link to some other jigs and tools. Good luck building, have a ton of fun. |
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| Author: | Jeff Highland [ Fri Aug 15, 2008 2:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
So do you just have a set of shorter go bars for this operation? |
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| Author: | Colin S [ Fri Aug 15, 2008 2:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
I too use the go-bar deck to attach the back and top plates. Just finished attaching plates on a OOO yesterday. Back goes on first like this, put the back in its correct radius dish, put the glue on the rims and place rims onto back. Doing it this way up allows easy glue clearance. Attachment: 006 (5).jpg Then the top can be added on. Attachment: 001 (7).jpg Colin |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Fri Aug 15, 2008 5:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
Jeff Highland wrote: So do you just have a set of shorter go bars for this operation? No. Same bars. They just bend more. Not an issue. |
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| Author: | Colin S [ Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
Jeff Highland wrote: So do you just have a set of shorter go bars for this operation? When gluing on the braces to the plates the dish sits on a raised platform. This platform is removed when gluing the top and back plates onto the rims. I like a constant go-bar tension, with the bars just over an inch longer than the clamping height. Any more than this does not increase the clamping pressure but does increase the bars tendency to take on a life of their own. You can see the platform (about 3.75") in this picture under the dish. Attachment: 015.jpg Colin |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
I would agree that what Colin and Todd Stock do - keeping the deflection of the bars down to about an inch - is a good idea, though I don't do that myself. I just place my bars carefully and don't have a problem. I grasp the bar at both ends, bend it, then place the top end directly above where the bottom end is going to go, then ease the bottom end down onto the spot where I want it. As I slowly release my grip of both ends, I feel whether the bar seems to want to move at all before I let go. Usually, it stays put, but if it seems to want to move, I'll adjust it slightly, which usually means moving the top end a bit, then slowly release my grip again. I'm just in the habit of doing this, so it's no big deal, and it's much quicker than my description makes it sound. I still might shorten my bars and do what those guys do, though. If I ever get around to it! |
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| Author: | Glenn LaSalle [ Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
Hi Jeff, Check out John Mayes new video closing the box - he goes step by step on how to do this - a great video. Glenn |
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| Author: | Kirt Myers [ Fri Aug 15, 2008 2:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
 I made this contraption so I could clamp quickly with hide glue. 3/4" foam insulation follows the perimeter of the guitar. Fiberglass mesh drywall tape on top of the insulation. The small wood blocks are glued to the drywall tape. The masonite is screwed to a couple of the wood blocks. The very top board is loosly screwed to the boards at the ends, so everything is flexible. I can put one gobar on the top board and the whole thing flexes to fit the radius of the back, then I can add the other gobars to fill in where needed. I'm actually gluing the top in this picture. The back gets glued on first in the same position, so I can use the caul the same way for either. Easy to make from scraps. |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Fri Aug 15, 2008 3:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
Kirt, if I get the photo correctly, the soundboard, which is being glued on, is on the bottom, between the sides and the dished workboard underneath, right? So, you're using the dished workboard as the gluing caul the way I do. You're just adding the contraption above to make it easier to position a bunch of go bars quickly, i.e. they don't all have to be carefully placed right around the perimeter, over the linings. Am I getting that right? |
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| Author: | Kirt Myers [ Fri Aug 15, 2008 3:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
That's right Todd, sort of. I glue the back on first, with the back up, just like in the picture, so I don't use the dish as a caul for the back. Then I glue the top on as shown, with the dish as a caul. So I can use the same contraption for the top or the back. I think it helps to keep the glue from running down the sides when gluing the top on. I can clean up the glue from the back in the normal way with the top off. I wanted to be able to get all the gobars in place in under 45 seconds. It worked! |
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| Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Fri Aug 15, 2008 3:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
Jeff Highland wrote: So do you just have a set of shorter go bars for this operation? My gobar uses 36 inch 5/16 inch hardwood dowels. Fifty cents each. I don't bother with the rubber tips for braces, since they are shaped and sanded smooth. I do however use thin pieces of hardwood to protect the top and back when gluing those to the rims. My deck is adjustable, and yes, I even have one end higher than the other to accomodate the thinner neck end of the body. Simple holes drilled through 2by2 uprights with bolts no nuts for the pins. Others use various size inserts to get the height right on their decks. Good luck building. |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Sat Aug 16, 2008 6:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
Todd, that's brilliant. I've never seen or heard of anyone using go bars through the sound hole for repairs. Great idea! If you come up with a clamping method for the other braces that you think is worth sharing here, please do. |
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| Author: | Heath Blair [ Sat Aug 16, 2008 11:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
im not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but i made my go bar deck to be adjustable in height. i know others have done the same. all of my go bars are 24" in length. i simply adjust the height of the deck for the appropriate operation. the height is adjustable via 4 pieces of all-thread, nuts and washers. hope the picture explains it well enough. |
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| Author: | SniderMike [ Sat Aug 16, 2008 12:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
Perhaps someone else has already thought of this, but it would be really cool to have quick-release nuts for this, like those found on some drill press depth adjustments, where you push a button in the middle of the nut, and can then slide it up and down. It'd also be cool just to say that you have quick-release nuts. |
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| Author: | Heath Blair [ Sat Aug 16, 2008 12:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
SniderMike wrote: Perhaps someone else has already thought of this, but it would be really cool to have quick-release nuts for this, like those found on some drill press depth adjustments, where you push a button in the middle of the nut, and can then slide it up and down. It'd also be cool just to say that you have quick-release nuts. 
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| Author: | Kathy Matsushita [ Sat Aug 16, 2008 1:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
SniderMike wrote: Perhaps someone else has already thought of this, but it would be really cool to have quick-release nuts for this, like those found on some drill press depth adjustments, where you push a button in the middle of the nut, and can then slide it up and down. It'd also be cool just to say that you have quick-release nuts. This version doesn't use such "quick-release nuts" (!), but it is a way to adjust the deck easily. I used two pipe-clamp parts for each corner and have notched out the corners. It works for me! Kathy |
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| Author: | SniderMike [ Sat Aug 16, 2008 1:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
Brilliant, Kathy! I love it. Todd, I haven't had luck finding the motorized deck, but sure sounds cool. |
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| Author: | Kathy Matsushita [ Sat Aug 16, 2008 1:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
SniderMike wrote: Brilliant, Kathy! I love it. I didn't actually come up with this idea myself — it came from an Internet friend, Mark Frazier — he did it somewhat differently, using only one pipe-clamp part underneath an adjustable bottom deck, which would work well, also. Couple this with Hesh's great pull-out TV swivel idea (which I used this summer), and you have a very, very easy to use go-bar deck!!! (I did a little video on this because I was so tickled with how it came out: http://home.comcast.net/~kathymatsushita/moreprojects/htmlpages/atc12.html) (The video is at the bottom of the page.) Kathy |
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| Author: | letseatpaste [ Sat Aug 16, 2008 2:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Go-Bars for top and back glueup? |
I've posted this before, but checkout how George Lowden does it. It's a bicycle innertube with fabric straps stapled to plywood.  
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