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| reversable epoxy? http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=18849 |
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| Author: | Jody [ Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | reversable epoxy? |
does anyone know of an epoxy that is reversable with heat, or steam? I have my neck all assembled ,it aligns with the center line of the top well,however , there is a slight bit of play in the joint, I thought epoxy would be good to fill any voids, but considering the possibility of needing to remove the neck in the future has me vexed . Thanks Jody |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: reversable epoxy? |
System 3, West Systems, Hardware Store variety. I've used all three 30 minute types and they all reverse with heat. |
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| Author: | Jody [ Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: reversable epoxy? |
Thanks JJ Jody |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Sep 19, 2008 8:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: reversable epoxy? |
Most epoxies are separable by heat. the question becomes how much heat. That can vary widely. |
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| Author: | Bob Garrish [ Fri Sep 19, 2008 9:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: reversable epoxy? |
You could use epoxy putty to fill in the voids in the joint and then re-work them for a tight fit. You can release epoxy with heat, but you'll REALLY scorch your guitar trying to get that much heat into a neck joint. The glues used for necks release with heat and moisture, allowing you to get the heat in there with steam as a vehicle. As epoxy isn't water soluble, that option is out and you're stuck trying to get a hot knife in your joint and/or heating the entire general area. |
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| Author: | Howard Klepper [ Fri Sep 19, 2008 12:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: reversable epoxy? |
"Reversible" used with reference to glue is supposed to mean not only that it can be loosened, but that it can be returned to its fluid state and then can reset again. Any glue will soften with enough heat. Only animal collagen glues (so far as I know) are reversible. |
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| Author: | Jody [ Fri Sep 19, 2008 5:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: reversable epoxy? |
By " reverse" , I meant to soften enough to release the bond, I like the idea of just filling the voids with an epoxy, how would I stop the joint from becoming permanent? or how would I take it apart to then glue it "permanently" ? Thanks Jody |
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| Author: | Jody [ Fri Sep 19, 2008 5:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: reversable epoxy? |
MichaelP wrote: Most epoxies are separable by heat. the question becomes how much heat. That can vary widely. what I meant was, separable by the normal means ( and amount of heat ), one uses to remove a neck . Jody |
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| Author: | Bob Garrish [ Fri Sep 19, 2008 8:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: reversable epoxy? |
Jody wrote: By " reverse" , I meant to soften enough to release the bond, I like the idea of just filling the voids with an epoxy, how would I stop the joint from becoming permanent? or how would I take it apart to then glue it "permanently" ? Thanks Jody Quickly: Fill gaps with epoxy putty, push heel in (either wax heel and scrape off later or use a barrier like plastic wrap) to push putty into gaps and out of way, remove and wait for set...then glue in normally. |
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| Author: | Howard Klepper [ Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: reversable epoxy? |
Sorry, just read the original post. Don't fill gaps in the neck joint (dovetail?) with epoxy. Learn how to fit a tight joint. |
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| Author: | Jody [ Sat Sep 20, 2008 5:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: reversable epoxy? |
yes it is a dove tail joint ,I realize now I should have fit the joint tighter before assembling the neck,ie.before glueing the fingerboard and truss rod in place. however, since I now have a very near perfect neck angle , as far as the heel and fingerboard extension , in relation to the body and bridge , with zero drop off, I would like to salvage this assembly and improve the fit on my second solo build . thanks for the input, everyone . Jody |
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| Author: | Jody [ Sat Sep 20, 2008 6:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: reversable epoxy? |
update; the problem i was having was pushing the neck straight into the joint due to the truss rod end. I removed the "nut" end of the rod and cut a bit more away from the top, allowing me to push the neck assembly straight into the joint. now i think I can fashion some mahogany shims to take up the slack . at least I will try that first, if not then I will fill the gaps with epoxy filler. thanks everyone . Jody |
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