Not to be critical, but if you don't recognize those 2 parts, you might not want to attempt a neck reset.
One is the neck block and the other appears to be the upper transverse brace with the truss rod nut showing through.

The neck joint could be a dovetail. I don't see bolts on the neck block to imply a bolt on.

I took it to a repair shop years ago, and he said it wasn't worth repairing, the neck is bent and the action too high.

I'm all for plunging in but, and I'm just throwing this out there, a neck reset is considered one of the most difficult repairs done to acoustic guitars. You might want to learn on something else slowly and work yourself up to that point.

If this is strictly a practice repair guitar, then by all means give it a try. But learn how to do it correctly no matter what the guitar is.

This is the steamer that some use.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... eamer.html
Basically you have to loosen the glue to pop the neck off. DONT SAW OFF ANYTHING.

You can google neck resets or search the archives in this site. But as John Mayes said it is not for rookies. I realize you are
using a "cheap" guitar and that is the best way to practice. Another option is to see if their is a luthier in your area and if you are lucky, you could do it with the guidance of a pro.

What is the model and make of the guitar?

Washburn D12s-12/LH

Also, regardless of the neck joint (unless dual mortice and tenon or floating) You will have to heat up the
fretboard over the body to loosen the glue holding the fretboard down

This is not a candidate for steam removal. If you really want to try this, this is one for a shoulder tuck (slipping the neck block), or bolt on conversion. Neither of them involve any heat, or loosening of the fingerboard.

I suggested that only because I assume that the guitar is a Made in Korea doweled butt joint, and unlikely to be a dovetail or M&T.

I'll admit (and feel free to consider this in how much value you place in my suggestions), my comments are not so subtly dismissive of the repair. I'm not trying to sound harsh in what I'm going to say here, but just offering the view from where I stand. To me it's just not worth doing at all if the end purpose is only to make the guitar playable, when you could replace it with something comparable for $200. And if you want practice, I would look for a cheap old Harmony or Stella to reset - it's a more conventional joint.

Of course if this is a dovetail, it would be just fine for practice. I don't think it is, but I could be wrong. I've never actually had one apart, because they always seem to leave the building when I quote the price. If it's not a dovetail though, I'd be more likely to call if firewood.

Again, no offense Paull. Just my personal, pragmatic view. If you can find someone who can tell you it's a dovetail though, by all means use it to learn.

Paul,

I would heed the advice of Andy, John, and David. These men are all seasoned luthiers and know what they're talking about. I have utmost respect for all of them!

Good council...Andy, John, and David are the luthier equivalent of the Three Wise Men...by the way John, did I leave my jar of Myrrh at your place?