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titebond II http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=27991 |
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Author: | Tai Fu [ Sat Jun 26, 2010 10:11 pm ] |
Post subject: | titebond II |
Anyone tried Titebond II that uses crosslinked PVA? Are they any good for instruments? It's all I can get in Taiwan, Titebond II or III or liquid hide glue. No one sells Titebond I for some reason. |
Author: | Jim Watts [ Sat Jun 26, 2010 10:46 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
I've not used it but have read plenty of bad reviews on both of those glues when used in instruments. The problems seem to be associated with creep. |
Author: | Edward Taylor [ Sat Jun 26, 2010 10:49 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
Can you get other yellow carpenters glue that is not Titebond brand? Same thing in Canada oddly enough, can never find Titebond original except for maybe some specialty woodworking stores. Yet II or III is in big box stores. |
Author: | Tai Fu [ Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:21 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
Edward Taylor wrote: Can you get other yellow carpenters glue that is not Titebond brand? Same thing in Canada oddly enough, can never find Titebond original except for maybe some specialty woodworking stores. Yet II or III is in big box stores. Aliphatic resin based glue just doesn't exist in Taiwan... Even Titebond II and III can't be found except online. All they have in the big box stores or mom and pop shops is PVA based white glue. I can order the stuff online from the US but shipping is expensive. I think the problem might be that the distributor just wont carry Titebond I, I don't know why. |
Author: | alan stassforth [ Sun Jun 27, 2010 12:30 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
never used titebond 2 on a guitar, because on other woodworking projects it left a yellow stain that the #1 never did. it's supposed to be waterproof, but i don't really believe that. good luck tai. alan |
Author: | LPMc [ Sun Jun 27, 2010 1:00 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
TiteBond II is water-resistant; TiteBond III is waterproof. The only reason that I know of not to use II is that it dries darker than Original TiteBond. So, it should be just fine for everything inside, and is OK for joining darker tonewoods. Don't use it for joining light-colored tops or for inlaying rosettes, where the brown color will be noticeable. TiteBond II is actually the preferred choice for gluing wood binding and accents that need to be bent in the sidebender. It won't let go when spritzed with water and then heated in the sidebender. Hide glue is a good choice for joining tops, though not for rosette inlays. I read that if you seal the endgrain with shellac, CA glue can be used for rosettes. Don't give up, you are not without options. |
Author: | Tai Fu [ Sun Jun 27, 2010 1:06 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
Well, I could always use regular white glue for non-structural joints such as rosettes. I used titebond III for binding on the first guitar simply because I heard bad things about titebond III and that bindings are non-structural. I prefer using hide glue for joining plates anyways because I do not have a perfect jig for this so I use the tape method which works best with hide glue. |
Author: | JasonMoe [ Sun Jun 27, 2010 2:18 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
I made 3 guitars with titebond 2 and have not had any complaints. I don't see any glue lines on sitka spruce or redwood. |
Author: | Laurent Brondel [ Sun Jun 27, 2010 8:30 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
I read an old Charles Fox article in a GAL Red Book where he says he was using TBII to glue braces, I can't remember the rationale though… I found that TBII resists heat and moisture only marginally better than TBI, so no real advantage there IME. Gorilla Wood Glue rocks, and was recommended to me by Mike Collins. It has a shorter open time, better heat resistance and much better tack than TBI. It also dries harder, whatever that means for those who think a glue joint noticeably affects tonal response (I don't). Tai-Fu, I do not understand your rationale: if you're already using HHG for most of the work, just use whatever wood glue, Elmer's or TBII, for what you can't do with HHG. There's also CA for rosettes and binding. |
Author: | Ti-Roux [ Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:25 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
Edward Taylor wrote: Can you get other yellow carpenters glue that is not Titebond brand? Same thing in Canada oddly enough, can never find Titebond original except for maybe some specialty woodworking stores. Yet II or III is in big box stores. Maybe in Ontario, but, if you cross the river, you can find it everywhere... Every good (or bad) store have it. |
Author: | unkabob [ Sun Jun 27, 2010 1:31 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
I have found titebond reasonably available in Manitoba over the last year or two. The distribution has changed recently but why doesn't Lee-Valley carry original formula. I brought my first bottle in from Hawaii about five years ago. Bob ![]() |
Author: | Bob Garrish [ Sun Jun 27, 2010 4:45 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
Ti-Roux wrote: Edward Taylor wrote: Can you get other yellow carpenters glue that is not Titebond brand? Same thing in Canada oddly enough, can never find Titebond original except for maybe some specialty woodworking stores. Yet II or III is in big box stores. Maybe in Ontario, but, if you cross the river, you can find it everywhere... Every good (or bad) store have it. Yeah, same here in Haliwood. |
Author: | Ti-Roux [ Tue Jun 29, 2010 8:29 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: titebond II |
Bob Garrish wrote: Ti-Roux wrote: Edward Taylor wrote: Can you get other yellow carpenters glue that is not Titebond brand? Same thing in Canada oddly enough, can never find Titebond original except for maybe some specialty woodworking stores. Yet II or III is in big box stores. Maybe in Ontario, but, if you cross the river, you can find it everywhere... Every good (or bad) store have it. Yeah, same here in Haliwood. See Edward, you're too far west ![]() |
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