Either send me a bottle, or $50 to buy it, and I'll give you a hard opinion!
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| Finish Durability http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=29749 |
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| Author: | George Thomas [ Tue Nov 02, 2010 6:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Finish Durability |
Hi: Has anyone done hardness comparisons or seen any tests between nitro and Ubeaut Hard Shellac? Any guesses which will hold up better with skin oils and abrasion? Thanks. |
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| Author: | woody b [ Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Finish Durability |
I think there's alot of speculation on U-Beaut, but that's about it. I believe most people are waiting for someone else to try it. Anyway, I can't answer your question, but my post will put your thread back toward the top. |
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| Author: | David Newton [ Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Finish Durability |
Either send me a bottle, or $50 to buy it, and I'll give you a hard opinion!
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| Author: | DennisK [ Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Finish Durability |
woody b wrote: I think there's alot of speculation on U-Beaut, but that's about it. I believe most people are waiting for someone else to try it. Yep, that seems to be the case  I'm tempted to try it on my next one though. Anyone want to send me a jar with a guitar's worth in it for guinea-pigging  ? Almost $50 a bottle is a pretty big investment, and is the shelf life long enough for me to finish 8 guitars?One of my main concerns is repairability. According to the description on LMI, you have to wash your pad immediately after using or it will harden and become unusable. Sounds like the plasticizer prevents re-melting the shellac later, i.e. repairs would only build a new layer on top rather than blending into the existing coat. But I guess if it's tough enough, it would never be needed anyway. Plus the new layer would probably adhere to the old just fine, and might not cause any visual problems. On the other hand, I think a regular FP is fine for guitars I'll be keeping myself at least. It doesn't feel super delicate or anything, just super thin so it will likely wear through quicker than nitro. In fact, I may not even retouch it if it does wear through on the bindings and/or neck, as the worn areas would likely be well burnished by then, and the neck might get that old hand oil-rubbed feel to it like wooden handrails get sometimes, which I think would be awesome ...but if I'm not retouching anyway, that means the hard shellac should be fine for me to use too, so I should still give it a try. |
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