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| questions about using hand plane to thickness top/back/side http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=31739 |
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| Author: | UkeforJC [ Mon Apr 04, 2011 3:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | questions about using hand plane to thickness top/back/side |
Dear all, I am wondering what is the best way to secure the pieces when thinknessing with a hand plane? I don't have a nice wood working bench, so I tried to make a bench dog that has some 2 mm stops at the end. I actually just glued some dimes on a piece of plywood. But that didn't help securing the board at all, and I can see that it might potentially damage the plane as well. So, it is not good. Then I tried just clamped one side of the board to the bench, while I planed the other side. Then rotated the board... This somehow worked better, but it is very troublesome. I want to ask you whether you have some better ways to secure the boards? any nice jig? Thank you so much. Really really appreciate your input. |
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| Author: | Tai Fu [ Mon Apr 04, 2011 4:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: questions about using hand plane to thickness top/back/side |
It just seems dangerous to clamp one side of a thin piece of wood to the table, since the shear force might actually cause a crack or worse... What about gluing sandpapers to the work board so that the friction is sufficient to hold the piece in place? |
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| Author: | B Radtke [ Mon Apr 04, 2011 4:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: questions about using hand plane to thickness top/back/side |
Cam clamps with a caul between the wood and the clamp, as suggested in Cumpiano's book. Worked for me. |
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| Author: | ernie [ Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: questions about using hand plane to thickness top/back/side |
save wear an tear . If your thicknessing stock ,try a scrub plane. , or regrind an old smooth plane to a radius , and start hogging off material quickly, and then switch to a smooth or jack plane for a final pass. You can also make a planing jig with a 2 by 2 ft piece of mdf, glue a 1by 2 under one end, and glue a strip of wood 2mm high by 25mm wide on the top end ,clamp the edge with the 1 by 2 to your table and plane in the direction of the 2 mm stop. For sides make a longer planing jig 32 in, with stops ,as above. |
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| Author: | alan stassforth [ Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: questions about using hand plane to thickness top/back/side |
I use scraps of top or back cutoffs, that are the thickness I'm after. .115", or whatever, and lock the top in with 4 of those. They also let you know when you are getting to the thickness you want to get to. |
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