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Neck Lams
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Author:  Ken Franklin [ Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:43 am ]
Post subject:  Neck Lams

Is anyone gluing up their neck laminations with fish glue? Or HHG?

Author:  SteveSmith [ Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:43 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

I've used fish glue for several neck lams and head plates. It worked fine. I use small metal pins to index the head plates so they don't slide around when I clamp it. When I do neck lams I usually only put a sheet of contrasting veneer in the center.

Author:  Josh H [ Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:58 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

I use fish glue for this all the time.

Author:  herry tze [ Sun Dec 02, 2012 9:59 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

I used HHG for all part... it worked fine :P

Author:  bftobin [ Sun Dec 02, 2012 4:10 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

How many laminations are we talking about ? If It's more than two and you want to glue up everything all one time, I'd say fish glue.
If you saw the Robbie O'Brien videos with Jose Romanillos, he glued a block of wood to his floor a number of years ago, and it's still well
secured.

Author:  Alain Moisan [ Sun Dec 02, 2012 7:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

Just wondering. Anything wrong with using Titebond for this sort of stuff?

Author:  Ken Franklin [ Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:18 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

Alain Moisan wrote:
Just wondering. Anything wrong with using Titebond for this sort of stuff?


I've had some minor cold creep with AR/PVA laminated necks and was hoping I could avoid that with fish glue.

Author:  Bryan Bear [ Mon Dec 03, 2012 11:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

I would guess that HHG would work well as long as you could get it clamped up fast enough. I like to use PU glue since this is a joint that I don't ever expect to have to reverse. It can be a bit messy, but since at that point it is just a rough neck blank it is no big deal.

Author:  Rodger Knox [ Mon Dec 03, 2012 11:53 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

I've used Titebond to laminate necks for years, the first is over ten years old & holding fine.
Not sayin' it's the best, just what I've used successfully.

Author:  Alain Moisan [ Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

Thanks Ken and Rodger.

I've laminated four necks recently for 3 classicals and one flamenco. I was starting to wonder if I might have shot myself in the foot with using Titebond!

Author:  WaddyThomson [ Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

I have laminated a number with LMI White without issue.

Author:  Kent Chasson [ Mon Dec 03, 2012 3:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

Ken Franklin wrote:
Alain Moisan wrote:
Just wondering. Anything wrong with using Titebond for this sort of stuff?


I've had some minor cold creep with AR/PVA laminated necks and was hoping I could avoid that with fish glue.


Hi Ken, how did that creep show up? I would have thought that, since the glue lines are perpendicular to the stress, there would be little reason for creep. Maybe I'm missing the question.

Millions of scarf joints have been made with AR/PVA glue.

Author:  WilliamS [ Mon Dec 03, 2012 11:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

I'd be a little surprised to see that joint creep, too. Did it happen on multiple necks?
Could it possibly be that the glue line was a tad on the thick side and you're just seeing finish sink at the glue line?

Author:  Ken Franklin [ Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:55 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

The creep showed in the finish on glue lines in the heel. No structural failure just something I don't like to see.

Author:  Joe Beaver [ Tue Dec 04, 2012 4:19 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

I did have creep once with titebond. I use a bolt-on neck with a five piece lamination.

The bolt insert was in the three center laminates and since I slope the shoulders of the neck 5 degrees, the bearing surface of the neck is the outer edges of the neck. I think I over tightened this one. When I did, it popped. The laminates, just in the heel cap area moved.

Author:  Alexandru Marian [ Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:37 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

I used fish now hide for this. Hide is easy to clamp by using the gobar deck. I glue one piece at a time, I feel there is less chance for tensions building up if each face is jointed very well each time. I can't really be sure i can could sand or plane a thin strip truly flat, but of course it works once it is attached to the solid outer piece.

Author:  LarryH [ Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

Two questions. Wouldn't epoxy be a natural for neck laminating?

Secondly, and I hope this will fit within this thread, what is the simple science of laminating for a neck? I have some 3/4+ walnut stock and love the idea of making a walnut neck to go with the walnut back and sides but really don't understand the best grain strategy for lamination. Is Walnut stable enough to simply laminate 2 or three pieces ina way that looks good or should grain be reversed, quartered etc.? I'll see if i can post a pic of the walnut i thinking about using for the neck.

Image

Image

Image

Author:  Rodger Knox [ Wed Dec 05, 2012 2:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

I build a sort of hybrid laminated/scarf joint neck, it works great for starting with 3/4" boards.
Here's some photos of how I do it.
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So that's my mini-tutorial on laminated necks.

Author:  LarryH [ Wed Dec 05, 2012 3:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

Thank you so much for taking the time Roger. A bit more complex than my skills and tools will allow but I will definitely take something from your tutorial.

I've seen one piece Hog necks all the time but one piece Walnut? With the stock I have? I'll probably lam 3 pieces with the grain running opposite to each other to add to the stability. Don't want to end with a neck that wants to move for sure.

Epoxy anyone?

Author:  Rodger Knox [ Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:57 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Neck Lams

Actually it's not that difficult and requires very few tools, the only cuts that require any precision are the scarf angles on the outside pieces, the rest you can use the already finished faces of your 3/4" board. A bandsaw is nice, but you could just as easily use a sabre saw.
It's a little more complicated than a regular scarf joint, but not any more difficult to build.

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