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Side purfling after binding is done?
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Author:  WendyW [ Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Side purfling after binding is done?
Anybody ever add side purfling after the binding has already been glued in? If so, how do you cut the channel?
Thanks, Wendy
Author:  ZekeM [ Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:59 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Side purfling after binding is done?
seems like a lot of uneccessary work to add it after binding is in. is there a reason you want to do binding first?
Author:  WendyW [ Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Side purfling after binding is done?
I didn't choose to do binding first. I just decided, after the binding was done, that I wished I had added another line of purfling. Just wondered if anyone does that. Seems like I saw a purfling cutter somewhere that would but a slot below the binding.
Author:  PeterF [ Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Side purfling after binding is done?
That's how it's done on violins. You use the hand purfling cutter with two knives in and then a tiny little chisel to scrape it out.

Edit: sorry, didn't realise you were asking about side purfling, but that method should still work.
Author:  Michael.N. [ Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Side purfling after binding is done?
I don't but I have done it that way in the past. It's the method that Romanillos used (at least in his early days). I used a scratch stock and inlaid it to a depth of around 1 mm. The advantage is that it covers any slight gaps between binding and the rib. The disadvantage is that it's more time consuming.
I haven't used the method in a long time. It's much easier to add the side purfling to the binding.
On my most recent Guitar I've formed the binding channel by leaving the linings proud (by a set amount) of the rib edge. It automatically forms the binding channel and gives a true edge for the side purfling to seat on. I've never seen this method in any of the books but I now know that there are a few other makers who use it. Bit of a light bulb moment. Not so important if you use a power tool/router to form the channel though.
Author:  TRein [ Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Side purfling after binding is done?
I have added side purflings in the way you ask about. An inexpensive marking gauge that uses a drill bit of the correct diameter ground to a chisel edge makes a great scraper. It is a PITA, but doable if you are so inclined.
Author:  bertoncini [ Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Side purfling after binding is done?
This is what I have used

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Rout%2FShape%2FDrill&NameProdHeader=Side+Cutting%2FPurfling+Tool
Author:  Rod True [ Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Side purfling after binding is done?
I think it would just be easier (& faster) to rout off the binding and redo it.
Author:  ZekeM [ Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:18 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Side purfling after binding is done?
Rod True wrote:
I think it would just be easier (& faster) to rout off the binding and redo it.

^^^^what he said^^^^^
Author:  WendyW [ Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Side purfling after binding is done?
Thanks Dave, I was looking for that tool today and could not find it on LMI's site.

Michael, when you leave the linings proud for the bindings, do you profile for the radius of the back and sides first and then install the linings? How do you keep the linings evenly proud so that the bindings are a consistent height all around the perimeter?
Author:  Michael.N. [ Tue Jan 22, 2013 4:15 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Side purfling after binding is done?
I fit the Linings without a profile.

Image

Image

I use the little stepped block of wood to set the depth (not the best photo of it). Fish glue gives you time to apply the glue and adjust the depth of the linings as the spring clamps go on. It's better to have them a touch higher rather than a touch lower. They can always be planed down to whatever the depth gauge says.
I then use a little apron plane and tilt it very slightly to form the profile. If that sounds a little imprecise you can always use a sanding form as shown in the pic. - it's the exact profile as the domed soundboard.
Once the Soundboard or Back is glued the overhang has to be trimmed flush back to the Linings. Chisel and/or thumb Planes or a Router if you use power tools.
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