Hey....this is weird. Somebody else on a different forum is going through the EXACT same thing as you, even the same model! I'll follow this closely and let him know what the outcome is

Cross posting is great I think! Hit a bigger target.

I have a 16-32 and I too have this issue. It's caused mostly by the drum paper being loose either on the ends or all around which can happen as the paper seems to stretch a bit when it gets warm. My issue is usually at the right side of the drum, closet to the coupler. I can never seem to get the paper tight there and when going thinner than 0.065" I can start to hear the slapping of the drum belt on the feed belt. It wears the drum belt down pretty quick in that location and I can't use that section of the drum or I'll just burn the wood as there is no abrasive left to do the work.

Try to get the drum belt really tight, check it often during use as it will stretch a bit.

I think a sled is a good idea for thin stick like sides or bindings. I should probably make one myself.

As I wrap the drum I leave an 1/8" gap between wraps. This allows the tensioner to do its job. I'm truly able to sand my perflings down to .020" with no drum to belt contact.

That could certainly be my problem, not leaving a gap between wraps...

Thanks Michael!!

As I wrap the drum I leave an 1/8" gap between wraps. This allows the tensioner to do its job. I'm truly able to sand my perflings down to .020" with no drum to belt contact.

Michael,

Do you mean you leave 1/8" between wraps across the whole length of the drum or just the final wrap before it goes into the tensioner on the motor side of the drum?

Regards,
Steve.

Between each wrap..

Cheers, M

Hi Everyone,

just like to say thanks to everyone that responded to my question - it is very much appreciated! One of the great things about being a member of a forum like this is how willing people are to offer their knowledge and experience to help someone with a problem. Awesome!

As someone pointed out (Jeff!), I cross posted this question to other forums and from all the replies it seems that this is common problem with the 16-32's and 22-44's. The most expedient solution seems to be to use a sled and the weight of a 3/4" ply or MDF sled should flatten the conveyor belt at the join line and give a better result.
The only downside I can see to a sled (especially for sides) would be that the use of infeed/outfeed tables would probably be mandatory. I do have these tables but rarely attach them to the sander because of storage/mobility issues.

I have heard of people using poly belts to fix this issue for the 22-44 but they seem hard to source (but are available from Klingspor for the 16-32). Anyone interested in exploring this option might like to read this post from the North Carolina Woodworkers forum for sources(http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47013).

My other question(s) is this - I have tensioned my conveyor belt as per Jet manual (enough tension so the belt doesn't slip when you place moderate hand pressure on the infeed side of the conveyor). Are other people tensioning as per the manual or can you put on a little more tension to help "flatten" the bulge around the join line on the conveyor? Any tips from anyone about how to achieve "correct" belt tension? I'm wary of overtensioning and bending my rollers but there seems to be scant info available in the manual about correct tensioning.

Thanks & Regards,
Steve.

Michael,

Thanks! That's certainly something new to try and not in the Jet manual. It won't fix my issue with belt around the join area but will help.

Regards,
Steve.