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| Simplified Nut Compensation? http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=40534 |
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| Author: | Bill Higgs [ Sat Jun 01, 2013 11:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | Simplified Nut Compensation? |
Hey Guys, Is there a simple (I know it won't be as accurate) nut compensation procedure for steel string? Say like moving the nut 0.020" closer to the 1st fret. Thanks, Bill |
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| Author: | Michael.N. [ Sat Jun 01, 2013 1:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Simplified Nut Compensation? |
Try it. You can buy Bone veneer. Glue some to the front facing edge of the Nut and cut the slots. If it makes things worse, well you can simply chisel off the veneer. Easier still just use a thin piece of Ebony. It will do as a test. |
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| Author: | Colin North [ Sat Jun 01, 2013 3:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Simplified Nut Compensation? |
You could try this as a guideline for above suggestion. http://www.mimf.com/nutcomp/ As an experiment I've been tapering my nut, and sanding at a right angle to the treble side of the fretboard up to the point where I cut off the 0 fret slot. Pic below, hope you can make it out. Works not too bad. I've used it on 4 guitars now. |
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| Author: | Beth Mayer [ Sat Jun 01, 2013 10:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Simplified Nut Compensation? |
Colin, I'm not sure I follow what you're doing there. |
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| Author: | Colin North [ Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Simplified Nut Compensation? |
Sorry about that. Hope this turns out clearer. Put simply, I am sloping the nut (face), similar in principle to sloping a saddle. Pic below, nut is wider on the left, narrower on the right. Fingerboard was cut off at zero fret position using normal template. After tapering the fingerboard as normal (10 mm taper at 12th fret) Fence on sander was set at 90 degrees and fingerboard (face up) was fed in until sandpaper just met the top right hand corner (use chalk on the f/b to see the material removal more easily). So the angle at the upper right end of fingerboard is 90 degrees. (left side angle is about 92 degrees) Nut tapered to wedge shape (as in fitting a tail wedge) - this involves another holder/jig of course! I then capo at the 2nd fret, adjust intonation at the saddle by ear (octave fretted against harmonic, i.e. 14th with the capo on) Take capo off, check 12th fretted (octave) against harmonic - any further adjustment required can be made by "backsloping" front edge of nut for each string. I've not really had to do this, for my ear. I will add, I've been using Martin 25.34" scale. light gauge stings (normally D'Addario), with low action for fingerpicking (around 2.5/2.0 mm, or even slightly less) I will also mention, because of the "shortening" of the 0 to 12th fret distance, I position my bridge/saddle from the 12th fret. |
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| Author: | Tom West [ Sun Jun 02, 2013 4:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Simplified Nut Compensation? |
Bill: Lots of folks do exactly what you are saying. And if anyone uses boards such as the LMI pre-slotted ones, there is a slot at the nut position and that moves the nut about .012" towards the saddle. I also like Colin's idea. Tom |
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| Author: | Bill Higgs [ Sun Jun 02, 2013 3:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Simplified Nut Compensation? |
So guys, Are we saying that if I shorten the nut to 1st fret diatance by 0.020" that I shouldn't shorten the 12th fret to saddle by the same 0.020"? Bill |
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| Author: | Colin North [ Sun Jun 02, 2013 4:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Simplified Nut Compensation? |
Got it in one, "normal" distance 12th fret to saddle, 1/2 scale length board has been fretted for, plus compensation. |
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