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EM6000 wet sanding
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Author:  Chris Ensor [ Wed Jun 05, 2013 7:30 pm ]
Post subject:  EM6000 wet sanding

What do YOU use as a lubricant when wet sanding EM6000?

Author:  SteveSmith [ Wed Jun 05, 2013 7:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

low odor mineral spirits

Author:  John Killin [ Wed Jun 05, 2013 8:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

Make sure it is cured before you use the mineral spirits. Target coatings advised not to use mineral spirits between coats. They said that might be the cause of some of the witness lines I had issues with. I think I had sanded to the zpoxy, but either way they said don't mix mineral spirits and an uncured finish.

I know this doesn't answer your specific wet sanding question but they said to wipe it down between coats with DNA. Especially if you let it sit. This will "reactivate" it so he next coat burns in better.

What I found with using DNA and wet sanding between session was that it would activate it to much and it would goop up.

After it was cured, I used mineral spirits to wet sand.

Author:  Ken C [ Wed Jun 05, 2013 8:48 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

I don't wet sand. I use sterated papers.

Author:  jac68984 [ Wed Jun 05, 2013 9:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

Water and a few drops of dish soap. Fine once finish is fully cured.

Author:  Mike OMelia [ Wed Jun 05, 2013 11:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

I have never had problems with wet sanding using mineral spirits. For me, it's the best sanding lube for EM 6000. Non-reactive. Just be sure it's totally dried off before applying additional coats.

Author:  Burton LeGeyt [ Thu Jun 06, 2013 8:38 am ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

Between coats I use abranet, dry, up to 1000 before the final 2 sprayed coats.

After at least 10 days I use mineral spirits with wet/dry paper up to 2000.

I have successfully sprayed repairs months after initial spraying using the DA trick, it works.

Author:  SteveSmith [ Thu Jun 06, 2013 4:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

For what its worth I only wet sand the final cured finish. I do intermediate level sanding with P400 dry.

Author:  LarryH [ Fri Jun 07, 2013 2:01 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

Burton LeGeyt wrote:
...I have successfully sprayed repairs months after initial spraying using the DA trick, it works.


What would the DA trick be?

Author:  Mike OMelia [ Fri Jun 07, 2013 3:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

LarryH wrote:
Burton LeGeyt wrote:
...I have successfully sprayed repairs months after initial spraying using the DA trick, it works.


What would the DA trick be?


I think he means DNA or denatured alcohol. DNA will react with cured EM 6000, maybe not a lot, but enough to activate the surface. Makes it easier to obtain a nice bond with new coats. You should be very careful doing this as you don't want to over soften the finish.

Author:  dradlin [ Sun Jun 09, 2013 12:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

I dry sand using Mirka papers up to 1200 grit, then work through 2L and 16 Menzerna compounds, and lastly Menzerna intensive polish. I pad the papers frequently on a carpet to keep them from clogging. This leaves me with no reason to wet sand.

Author:  dradlin [ Sun Jun 09, 2013 12:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

Ken C wrote:
I don't wet sand. I use sterated papers.


Not to argue with success, however the general recommendation from Target is to use non-sterated papers (or at least low sterate) since residual sterate (soap) left on the finish can cause problems. I suppose though that wouldn't be a problem on the final sand with no more finish coats being applied.

Author:  Burton LeGeyt [ Thu Jun 13, 2013 12:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: EM6000 wet sanding

Mike O'Melia wrote:
LarryH wrote:
Burton LeGeyt wrote:
...I have successfully sprayed repairs months after initial spraying using the DA trick, it works.


What would the DA trick be?


I think he means DNA or denatured alcohol. DNA will react with cured EM 6000, maybe not a lot, but enough to activate the surface. Makes it easier to obtain a nice bond with new coats. You should be very careful doing this as you don't want to over soften the finish.


Sorry for the delay in responding, I did not see this-

Yes, either spray or wipe on some Denatured Alcohol and it will activate the finish after it has "cured" to allow for a subsequent layer to fully bond making lifetime invisible repairs a simple affair. There seems to be no time limit. This is my favorite attribute of this finish and makes up for some other not so great things (slight blue if thick, not so hard, slightly plastic-y, bad or non existant help from the manufacturer etc...)

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