Here's a method I developed to get nice clean FB edges on the top.
It's basically an extension of what I believe is the Sylvan Welles method. I forget.
Anyway, first decide how much taper you want. Measure the difference between the nut end and extension end, and divide by two. Make a stick about 8" long that is that thickness.
The jig is just a stepped board with little pieces of the stick glued on at each end.
The sticks need to be a bit farther apart than the length of the fingerboard.
The fingerboard needs to be slotted, then cut to its final length.
Place it face down with the nut end facing right on Stick One. I'm using double stick tape, but V 2 would definitely employ toggle clamps.
Take a light pass just scoring the surface.
Take a second pass cutting all the way through.
Flip the fingerboard end to end and place face down on Stick Two (just a double width of Stick One).
If you include the bindings in the layup, there is no need to actually measure them to get the correct overall width.
Do a light pass, then a full cut, and voila!
Bindings and fingerboard come out together to a perfect 1 3/4" board.
With sharp unsplintered edges.
I set the fence depth originally using scrap wood and the fine art of 'smidgeonry', then cut a piece of a scrap wood for future cuts.
Of course, there are many ways to get this job done. But if I can make a thing foolproof, it's in my best interest .
Look left to see why...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Toggle clamps are the way to go.