If you are using a buffing wheel or an arbor there is no sense in sanding out to 2000 or even 1200. You can start with Menzerna P204 after 600 grit sanding, or if you use 113GZ pre-polish you only need to sand out at 400, that's what I do. It's also what the large manufacturers do.The whole level sanding process is basically one step done dry with a typical no load paper. Buffing goes much quicker than sanding.

Here is a link to Menzerna's info on polishing painted surfaces.
http://www.menzerna.com/fileadmin/user_ ... hure_E.pdf

Brian, I find that amazing!
I have struggled for years trying to figure out the right combo for sanding and buffing EM6000 to get a scratch-free finish.
Currently I block sand dry with P800 Fre-Cut Gold, (takes hours) then wet sand with with wet and dry using mineral oil - 1000 - 1500 - 2000, then hit it with micromesh and oil - 3200 - 4000 - 6000, then have at it with the buffer.
I start with the P204.
Looks great, but takes all bloody day.
Looks like I am going to have to get me some 113GZ.....

Funny how when friends or other parents stop by and want to see the shop, they pay no attention to the nice chisels, pre-war stanley planes, drum sanders.....and pop their eyes out at the BUFFER!? Apparently, that is what solidifies that I am some kind of expert in the minds of "civilians".

Thanks for all the great comments. I'm going to stop dry sanding at 400 and double check my buffing compounds again.

Brian,

What size wheels do you run, and how thick are they?

P 400 paper, Menzerna is a european co. and that is the european grading system.

I run 14" buffs, two 1" wide side by side for most things but strip down to single buffs for tight cutaways etc.

As to the hold on with a "deathgrip", I found wearing a set of modern work gloves provides a firm hold with less grip pressure.

Be advised... P-grade paper is in reality courser than what you expect. That is, P800 is 400 grit in ANSI. This has got me in trouble before. With P800 you can easily sand through your finish. Check out this conversion chart.

http://www.fine-tools.com/G10019.htm

Brian, thanks for clearing that up.

Steve,
I am glad you brought this up. Until I discovered a similar chart a few years back, I was skipping back and forth between the P and the ANSI and did not understand what was happening. I might sand to 600 ANSI, and then go to a sheet of P800, thinking I was progressing, when actually it was like dropping back to 400 ANSI. I drove me crazy until someone pointed out the difference. It gets worse as the grits get finer. 800 ANSI is the same as P2000.

I am amazed that there is not more emphasis, as to the type grit, when a grit is referred to in literature or websites. Most of them just seem to assume you know which grit they are referencing.

And then you have to add Micro-mesh and others to the confusion: P800 is the same as ANSI 400, F360, J700, and MM1500. I think my brain just exploded.

Sorry, I did not intend to hijack. Carry on

James

Also, if P grades are European, why is all my USA sandpaper listed in P grades?

P 400 paper, Menzerna is a european co. and that is the european grading system.

I run 14" buffs, two 1" wide side by side for most things but strip down to single buffs for tight cutaways etc.

As to the hold on with a "deathgrip", I found wearing a set of modern work gloves provides a firm hold with less grip pressure.

Brian, do you use the same buffing schedule for nitro, as waterborne, as poly?

Thanks, Michael

Yes, I level sand at 400. I sand to remove 90% of the surface texture, the rest will come out in the buffing. I run 4 sets of buffs & compounds. Menzerna compounds 113GZ, P204, GW16 & Atol6 in that order. I spend the most time with the first compound and each successive compound goes quicker than the one before. I always keep the previous buff on the other side of my arbor so if I see something that I missed I can skip back a compound and catch it without any fuss. The average guitar takes me about 2.5 hours to level sand and buff.