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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 12:49 am 
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Assuming this is a solid wood top? If we are talking about preserving the patina on plywood......well two words - buzz saw.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:26 am 
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Cocobolo
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I bought two broken guitars for learning as well. I disassembled one. It was largely a waste since the glue they used was nearly impossible to get apart. I spent several hours heating and knifing and they still didn't come off clean, nowhere near. I tried really hard to do a good job, to no avail. It was a seventies Epiphone 12 string, made of rosewood plywood. While impossible to get apart cleanly, the thing was poorly constructed. Lakes of glue. I recall thinking in my youth that Epiphones didn't sound that good, now I know why: plywood, bolted on bridge, random glue EVERYWHERE!

The other is a six string Alvarez that has a neck that's departing from the body. The action is so high it needs to be measured in inches. Hopefully this guitar will teach me a bit about getting a neck angle correct.

I obviously think junk guitars are worth buying to learn something. Best of luck to you getting the joints apart cleanly. I found that a highly curved blade worked best for focusing in on seams. But I really don't know what I'm doing so my advice is questionable here.

-j


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:30 am 
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The other is a six string Alvarez that has a neck that's departing from the body. The action is so high it needs to be measured in inches. Hopefully this guitar will teach me a bit about getting a neck angle correct.
\

This one should be a better guitar to work with . I have repaired a few of these successfully [:Y:]

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These users thanked the author WudWerkr for the post: Jimmyjames (Wed Apr 22, 2015 10:01 am)
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:41 am 
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Actually, it probably isn't visible in the pic, but the black surrounding the APPEARS to be either black paint or Sharpie, NOT an adhesive or any kind of glue. Anyway, I haven't taken a close look at it yet, but at a glance that's what it appears to be. We'll see as I dive in.


Thats good . [:Y:]

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The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/groups/GatewayA ... rAssembly/


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 9:40 am 
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charmedlife417 wrote:
WudWerkr wrote:
Ok , # 1 I will be amazed if ,when its strung up and tuned , that headstock doesn't come off there like a slingshot stone . The back hoe they used to dig out around the truss rod nut was a big one . # 2 The stuff that is around the bridge that looks like glue to me may indeed be AMG and the only way you may get that sucker off is to take a belt sander or that type tool to it and thin it waaaayyyyy down. I would bet the bridge back plate is trashed and will need replaced as well as the bridge . After seeing this , I am gonna say ....... Have fun ...... You aint out nothing and you may learn some stuff along the way !


Actually, it probably isn't visible in the pic, but the black surrounding the APPEARS to be either black paint or Sharpie, NOT an adhesive or any kind of glue. Anyway, I haven't taken a close look at it yet, but at a glance that's what it appears to be. We'll see as I dive in.

Thanks!
CL


I see the Sharpie part (why?????) but there are also lumps and chunks that appear to be squeeze out indicating a poor repair at some point.

You may find a chisel or (small) router may be the best way to get the bridge off and careful routing (again, a small router) may do good on the back if the glue doesn't separate with heat.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 10:02 am 
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Wow, that's some tacky goodness. I love the moth on the pickguard. :D

IMHO, there's more than enough of learning opportunities here without making unnecessary work for yourself. First thing to learn is be efficient... Why remove the neck?? Is it warped??

My suggestions:

- Plug the tuner holes and add front and back headstock veneers. Fix that missing chunk by the truss rod first. No headstock veneer makes a very weak neck.
*Maybe* pull off the fretboard and put in a modern rod while you're at it.

- Make new nut.

- Fret job. Consider a full refret. (pulling all and sanding the fretboard flat)

- Rout off the bridge. Pull the back to replace/repair bridgeplate and check or modify the bracing. This will also allow you reset the neck action if needed.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 10:19 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I retopped a cheap guitar when I first got into this gig 25 years ago. I learned how to join a top, brace one and glue it on. It was worth the effort but I'm not sure how valuable a learning experience it will be for you to take the back off of that one. If the only reason you want to take the back off is to scallop the bracing then don't, just reach through the sound hole and use a mini plane or some coarse 60 grit paper. As for the neck, on guitars that are reasonably valuable enough or at least very sentimental to a customer I just saw the neck off with a thin flush cut Japanese saw and convert to a bolt on. That imho would be a valuable lesson.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 10:28 am 
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jfmckenna wrote:
If the only reason you want to take the back off is to scallop the bracing then don't, just reach through the sound hole and use a mini plane or some coarse 60 grit paper. As for the neck, on guitars that are reasonably valuable enough or at least very sentimental to a customer I just saw the neck off with a thin flush cut Japanese saw and convert to a bolt on. That imho would be a valuable lesson.


Yeah, you're right no reason to pull the back only to scallop the bracing. Considering the damage to the bridge though, I'd expect some structural damage to the top, but maybe not. Use a mirror first...

For sure, neck removal on this one by thin flush cut saw and bolt on conversion is the only sensible method if it must be done. No point at all on trying to unglue the joint.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 10:37 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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SteveSmith wrote:
Wow, that bridge is ........................ interesting.


Yeah it's looks like it's being held on with vintage JB Weld.....

Shoot the thing and put it out of it's misery.....

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 3:51 pm 
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Yep -- JB Weld!

As to the OP question -- a heated wide-ish blade Exacto knife to get the bindings off, heated putty knife to remove the back. I will say that removing the back, pitching the neck back away from the sound-board then gluing the back to the rim/neck block is a simple method used to salvage the less valuable GLO's I am guessing some may not have a clue as to what I am talking about. I used this method on a few Gibson Classical's. (shame on me)

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 11:25 pm 
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WudWerkr wrote:
Quote:
The other is a six string Alvarez that has a neck that's departing from the body. The action is so high it needs to be measured in inches. Hopefully this guitar will teach me a bit about getting a neck angle correct.
\

This one should be a better guitar to work with . I have repaired a few of these successfully [:Y:]


Wud, thanks. When you say you've "repaired a few of these" were you referring specifically to the Kasuga brand, or just to a similar kind of guitar from the same era? I've hardly been able to find anyone who had ever heard of this brand.

Just curious....

Thanks,
CL


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:56 pm 
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charmedlife417 wrote:
WudWerkr wrote:
Quote:
The other is a six string Alvarez that has a neck that's departing from the body. The action is so high it needs to be measured in inches. Hopefully this guitar will teach me a bit about getting a neck angle correct.
\

This one should be a better guitar to work with . I have repaired a few of these successfully [:Y:]


Wud, thanks. When you say you've "repaired a few of these" were you referring specifically to the Kasuga brand, or just to a similar kind of guitar from the same era? I've hardly been able to find anyone who had ever heard of this brand.

Just curious....

Thanks,
CL


Was refering to The Alvarez he mentioned . The ONLY Kasuga I know about is the tenor Banjo I restored and have for sale for $180.00

_________________
The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/groups/GatewayA ... rAssembly/


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 5:13 pm 
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Don't know how similar they are but here is my $30 what-the-heck experience. It is an Aria guitar, no strings on it when I bought it so I could not tell what it sounded like. Glued the bridge back on and found I paid $25 more than I should have. Well, to be fair the neck was not bad. Managed to separate the fretboard from the top with a razor knife. Used some heat and took off the binding and then the top. Was going to retop it with a cedar fence board.

Image

Dowels were not even glued in. Almost too easy to get the neck off.

Image

All plywood.

Image

Did not get too fancy.

Image

Back to our regularly scheduled program.


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