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| Ebony Color Issues... http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=47628 |
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| Author: | sdsollod [ Wed Apr 13, 2016 4:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Ebony Color Issues... |
I milled this ebony bridge blank with my safety planer and then ran it through the drum sander and It kinda has a strange whitish color in it. Is this normal? It doesn't look like mineral spots I've seen before. Any ideas? Should I not worry about it or is there a remedy? The |
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| Author: | Alex Kleon [ Wed Apr 13, 2016 4:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ebony Color Issues... |
Have you tried wiping with a solvent, Steve? Alex |
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| Author: | sdsollod [ Wed Apr 13, 2016 4:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ebony Color Issues... |
Alex, I have not tried wiping it with a solvent... Is there one you would suggest, napth, dna, acetone? |
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| Author: | Alex Kleon [ Wed Apr 13, 2016 5:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ebony Color Issues... |
sdsollod wrote: Alex, I have not tried wiping it with a solvent... Is there one you would suggest, napth, dna, acetone? I'd just use paint thinner, or naptha. DNA flashes off quickly, and can cause moisture in the wood to evaporate, as well. Alex |
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| Author: | Chris Pile [ Wed Apr 13, 2016 6:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ebony Color Issues... |
Looks like mineral content to me.... may not wipe off. |
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| Author: | sdsollod [ Wed Apr 13, 2016 8:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ebony Color Issues... |
I don't remember the week acid you use on mineral spots. Acetic acid? |
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| Author: | Ben-Had [ Wed Apr 13, 2016 9:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ebony Color Issues... |
I use acetone for that Steve. Sometimes get mineral streaks in EIR as well. The acetone dissolves the natural oils and its like staining it but I think you just have piece of the "new" ebony that is being sold. I have found recently that getting solid black is getting harder and harder to find. |
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| Author: | bftobin [ Thu Apr 14, 2016 7:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ebony Color Issues... |
Don't have it in front of me, but muriatic(?) acid. It's also used by people doing marble work etc for clean up. Rubber gloves and a mask and good ventilation unless it's a very mild solution. Ebony is becoming more and more like that. There's a Youtube clip by Bob Taylor about this. Massive quantities of ebony were left and the ground because only one in three(?) trees was black enough. Now Taylor and others are buying not so black ebony, and players will slowly have to get used to it. I bought 50 bridges from one of our sponsors six months ago that were said to be 'jet black'. Most were but about one third were not. Still a great buy and I am very happy with the quality. And, I have had some younger players say they like the streaks because it looks like woods and not so much like plastic. Brent |
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| Author: | kencierp [ Thu Apr 14, 2016 7:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ebony Color Issues... |
I too use acetone on Rosewood mineral deposits -- it dilutes the resin and makes a stain solution that blends perfectly. Now this piece of wood in the original post is mineral stained as well -- on the other hand, this should not be confused with perfectly normal Ebony that has lightish variegated grain characteristics. When buying "streaked Ebony" that is what you should be getting -- not mineral stained. There is a distinction, mineral stained Ebony requires a repair treatment -- streaked Ebony does not. |
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| Author: | sdsollod [ Thu Apr 14, 2016 8:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ebony Color Issues... |
I tried acetone. Didn't do a thing... |
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| Author: | kencierp [ Thu Apr 14, 2016 8:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ebony Color Issues... |
From the Allied website -- sure enough acid is recommended -- and lemon juice might work! Grades 4A grade boards are for retail only. We're simply not getting enough of the quality that everyone wants: black, quarter-sawn, straight grain, and no knots. At best, this grade represents about 10% of what we get. 4A grade boards are quartersawn, even colored, not necessarily black-black, no knots, straight, and fine grained. 3A boards are similar in color to 4A grades, but may have a blemish on one side, or may be slab sawn. If slab sawn, the color will be dark. This grade may have some mineral which can be removed using muriatic acid (recently heard lemon juice works, too).* 2A grade boards are usable, but not great, and will usually require some dying or staining, or if not, may have some knots that go all the way through the board. 1A, for all intents and purposes is really 2nd grade. The most you can say about these boards are that they are ebony. But if you don't mind staining, and perhaps even filling a few blemishes these boards are usable. |
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| Author: | John Arnold [ Fri Apr 15, 2016 10:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Ebony Color Issues... |
The whitish mineralization is primarily calcium carbonate (lime) and can be removed from the surface with an acid. White vinegar or C-L-R have worked for me. Diluted muriatic acid will also do it, but may discolor lighter woods. While acetone will leach oils out of rosewood and darken the mineralization, it doesn't seem to do much to African or Indian ebony. I used to buy Indian ebony in the early-1980's, and mineralization was very common. |
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