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Black locust, red spruce (Hampton Brothers) Herringbone OO-28, sides bent in the mold, working on the rosette. And sharpening a couple of Jerry Fisk hand forged knives.

Stunning and inspiring.


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I really like this - both in concept and execution. Huge fan of the G&G style, I may have to try something like this myself in the future.

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Blog on Making Stuff: http://www.McGlynnOnMaking.com

When I woke up this morning I had plans to close the box on a Mahogany tenor Uke I'm working on. Then I remembered an article from American Lutherie that covered Jay Lichty at the GAL doing a side port in a Uke. I read, re-read and re-re-read the article. Seemed simple enough to do. So off the Hobby Lobby to get some ellipse stencils and give it a go. Pucker factor through the roof, but it worked and the jig and setup Jay showed made it really solid. I used a Dewalt with a guide bushing and an 1/4 shank to 1/8 down cut spiral bit. It was definitely worth it. The binding comes tomorrow.













Brad



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I've been working on a guitar using the plan the GAL recently put out by Jeff Elliott.
Lots of great stuff going on in this thread btw.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Stunning Jay!

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Pat

How did you cut the oval in the template out accurately?

I just used the drill press to drill out the waste and then very slowly sneak up to the line with a spindle sander and the smallest spindle.



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To finish out the thought....

Here is the final pics. I used the same fiber board from RC that he used in the article. I also hit it with some of the black shoe leather dye that SM sells to darken fretboards with.











Brad


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Cutting F holes on a 17" Maple/Adi archtop with laminated sides-





Gluing the fretboard on a BZ/Adi OM that is getting close to the goal line.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Last night I wiped on a few thin seal coats of 1 lb. shellac, and tomorrow I'll be off to the races with lacquer.

That's great work. Inspiring me to learn how to inlay!

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What did you use to glue the inlay down for scribing? And how did you get it back off?

I've struggled with this a bit -- getting it temporarily glued down for scribing and then getting it back off without breaking the pieces. I used duco, which works OK for substantial hunks of inlay, but for pieces with thin delicate areas it either doesn't hold...or it does and the parts break coming off.

If my sawing gets a little more accurate I'm going to use a copy of my original pattern directly as my routing guide.

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Blog on Making Stuff: http://www.McGlynnOnMaking.com

Getting ready to bind some bodies. BRW/Red Spruce 00, BRW/Red Spruce OM, Coco/Sitka OM, Hog/Red Spruce dread.



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Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement.

Whoa! Sorry about the huge pics, I selected "best size" on the iPhone tapatalk app.

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Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement.

Whoa, is that an engraved metal label?? Nice!

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Pat

The Greene & Greene guitar is about done, getting its final setup in a week or so. Something I'd never done before was etching the nickel tuners to knock down the gloss. Pleased with the overall outcome.













Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

A crossover nylon string with cutaway in Wenge and Western Red Cedar with a bolt on removable neck and 13 frets to the body - yeah I know just being contrary and a Maple & Redwood Tenor uke.. Ready to start pore filling the Wenge, always fun and fretwork and finish on both.

Kerry

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Pat

The G+G is quite lovely. Your detailing is great. How did you knockdown the shine of the tuners?

Ed

Hang on a wire and dip each piece in PC board etchant, followed by a couple minutes under running water. Not enough? Repeat...


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Thanks, Ed.

Just like Haans said. I got it at Radio Shack, though the chain no longer caters so much to people who fabricate their own printed circuit boards.

I've only done nickel plating with this treatment. Chrome would take something much stronger.

I did discover that not all "nickel" plating is created equal. The good plating, such as on the old-style Grover Sta-Tites that I've had rattling around in a drawer for years gives a consistent result with the etchant at full strength. The current style of Sta-Tites has something different on the base of the tuners. Even at half-strength, it destroyed the plating. The other parts - worm gear and buttons, screws, etc. - came out fine. This treatment turns brass a reddish color.

The etchant is really nasty stuff, so take appropriate precautions.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

All of what Pat said and make sure the process has been neutralized by water. Open back tuners should be dis-assembled as most of the gearing is brass. Seems to take less etching with plating over brass compared to the baseplates.
Best to use a stopwatch or clock with second hand and start on a very short time...

Good to see you still posting, Haans.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Spent the last month packing up my shop, getting ready to move.
The wife thinks I have a lot of stuff to get rid of. Thats not going to happen.

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Say what you do, Do what you say.

Now that made me laugh!

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"