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| Neck and end blocks http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=49014 |
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| Author: | JSDenvir [ Sat Feb 18, 2017 7:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Neck and end blocks |
I know it's traditional to use mahogany or another hardwood, but is there any reason, apart from tradition, to not use plywood for neck and end blocks? Steve |
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| Author: | SteveSmith [ Sat Feb 18, 2017 7:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
I sometimes use 1\2" Baltic birch ply for tail blocks. I stick with mahogany for the neck block because it is easily visible through the sound hole. |
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| Author: | Jim Watts [ Sat Feb 18, 2017 7:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
Steve, I've used ply before for the end block, it can help a prevent a drop on the tapered end pin from splitting the block. Also here's a variation I've done in the past for a bolt on neck using mahogany and ply for the head block. Attachment: neck block Large e-mail view.jpg
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| Author: | kwerry [ Sat Feb 18, 2017 8:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
I use 1/2 Baltic birch for the end block and two layers of 3/4 Baltic birch for the neck block (bolt on M&T neck) . works or me.. Kerry |
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| Author: | rlrhett [ Sat Feb 18, 2017 8:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
If you laminate up 3" of ply it will definitely be heavier than a mahogany neck block. And, of course, it won't look as nice. Other than that, I think it sounds like a good idea. Stable. Consistent. Easily available. I'm trying to get the testicular fortitude to just try it. Maybe put a thin mahogany layer on top just to calm shaky spirits of anyone looking in the soundhole. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | Terence Kennedy [ Sat Feb 18, 2017 10:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
No problem with plywood for a tail block, do it all the time. Mahogany for the headblock. |
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| Author: | Mike OMelia [ Sat Feb 18, 2017 10:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
There is technically nothing wrong with using plywood in a guitar. But I think it is a cost issue. I guess it depends on what ur clients prefer. I like solid woods. |
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| Author: | Alex Kleon [ Sun Feb 19, 2017 1:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
I've got some 19mm Baltic ply scraps that you can experiment with, Steve. Alex |
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| Author: | Clinchriver [ Sun Feb 19, 2017 6:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
If you don't mind..... plywood for a tail block is acceptable. I would not use it for a dovetail neck block, I'd be worried about steaming the join to do a neck set. |
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| Author: | bluescreek [ Sun Feb 19, 2017 7:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
Martin had used it for years on the bolt on necks |
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| Author: | Woodie G [ Sun Feb 19, 2017 7:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
We use 12mm Baltic birch plywood for tail blocks - more split resistant for pickup-equipped instruments and slightly lighter than the same width/height 3/4" mahogany block (Baltic birch is about about 35 lbs/cubic foot versus 28-32 lbs/cubic foot for mahogany). We use one-piece mahogany construction for dovetailed necks, but for mortise and tenon, multi-piece blocks are acceptable if the joinery is not made obvious due to grain match (we get three neck blocks from the leftover waste from each neck blank). We don't use Baltic birch for neck blocks, although that is almost solely due to appearance, versus weight or other factor. We have used spruce for linings and neck/tail blocks where weight is an issue, but with just a few lbs/cubic foot difference in density, there is less weight savings than might be expected. |
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| Author: | Clay S. [ Sun Feb 19, 2017 9:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
For bolt on necks I've made neck blocks by gluing up 2 layers of 1/2 inch baltic birch with one layer of 1/2 inch mahogany facing and veneering the sides. I like to radius the edge that is toward the sound hole to avoid stress risers and the 1/2 inch of mahogany allows me to do that without exposing the plywood. If you make a "length" of stock and cut several neck blocks from it, it isn't too much bother. I like the stability of plywood but the look of mahogany. |
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| Author: | ernie [ Sun Feb 19, 2017 3:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
I use a light mahogany plywood I purchased from homeless depot . It is some species of lightweight wood with the contrasting layers of another tropicalhdwd . I/m using it for tail and head blocks Very light, stiff. and stable. My qualm with the traditional mahogany is on the front and rear blocks , one is glueing the long grain of the top and back to the end grain of mahogany .IMHO a sketchy type of joint , that may or may not hold over time.I prefer to glue long grain to long grain for a stiffer , solid enduring joint. Ignacio fleta would glue additional long grain( following the grain line of the top and back) pieces of leftover wood for the blocks to make a solid glue joint , and he was one of the few spanish guitarmakers to use a dovetail joint. |
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| Author: | jfmckenna [ Sun Feb 19, 2017 5:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Neck and end blocks |
I like using hardwood. Usually mahogany but otherwise spruce, walnut, even oak. I just like it. Nothing wrong with plywood. I never glue the end grain to the top either. The end grain sticks out the sides of the blocks. Easy to do if you stack the blocks too. Not only is end grain a bad place to glue a joint but it's a PIA to plane it to final shape too. |
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