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1999 model, I think I was told. U can use serial to look it up. All 5 back braces are loose. Top cross brace loose, both top longitudinal braces seem ok. Getting a scope in those later. But as you can see from pictures, area behind bridge is bulging up. Area in front of bridge is sunken. Bass does not have much volume. What are your recommendations for repair?

Oh, and that pickguard has bubbles under it. What about that?

Look at the saddle. Looks really loose in slot and tilted forward. Is this correct?

Notes: All bracing is not buried in the kerfed lining (no wonders it pops off?)

They pretty much all do that. They sounded pretty good for a flat top bass while they lasted, but they implode rather consistently and predictably. A few years after that one was made they redesigned the bracing because they saw all these basses collapsing, and the later design is more stable, but sounds about as mediocre as any other flat top bass.

I've repaired a few of these, mostly just to keep them hobbling along for as long as they may last, but I don't believe there's any great solution without adding additional bracing (which I've done), which changes the tone.

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Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

David, did you remove top? (to add bracing)

All bottom braces are loose

I know that is a crazy idea. But a new top with original bracing will give it its voice back for a few more years.

I can't imagine doing anything so drastic, simply by a cost/value consideration. When I've added braces, it's all been worked through the soundhole and preamp hole in the side. Removal of the back or soundboard would push the cost above the value.

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Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

Yeah. I think that makes sense. Guy who owns it got for $700, well below average book. He says he will be last owner. He can afford it. But if it can get close to normal with rehydration and reglue, that's best.

What about that tilted saddle? Not even close to vertical

I do recall having to do something with a similar saddle iss on one of these recently (last few years anyway). Can't recall if I plugged and refute the slot, or just cut it a bit wider and deeper. I do recall one of these having a very warped and distorted slot though which we had to deal with. Must be another typical issue with these.

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Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

Here are some saddle pics

That just looks like a tilted, Ill fitted saddle to me

Yeah, could be. The case I recall dealing with had a saddle so warpednand a bridge so weak and unsupported in front, that the slot itself had warped so much as to be unusable.

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Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

I wonder what a Thunderchief would be like if the same bracing patteren was used but using carbon fiber in the braces?

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

If memory serves that is a "bindingless" model if that is the case I would not hesitate to pull the back and "easily" perform repairs and or mods.
$.02

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

Rather than over bracing it, I wonder how nylon cored harp guitar strings would make it sound.

I really want to yank the top. No binding there as well. And top is wrecked. Bulging. Sinking. Easier to match a new top.

If I did this, I'd replace bottom braces and tuck them. Can't believe they are not tucked.

Lots of talking back and forth with owner. Still haven't heard anyone say "oh hell no! Do not remove top!" I'm guessing that's the nature of this relatively inexpensive instrument. It's not a Gibson or Martin, nor is it a six string. Can't help noticing the top is basically failed. Owner does not plan to sell, got it relatively cheap $700. Would I destroy this instrument if I rebuilt the top? Light carbon laminated bracing?

If I do this, my plan is to recreate top exactly. Bracing too. But, I want to use carbon fiber in the bracing. Where do I buy this carbon fiber? And is it best to epoxy the wood and fiber?

Mike,
I get my CF here, from the recommendation of Mario Proulx . https://store.acpsales.com/products/236 ... nal-sheets

( ACP Composites, CL3-37)

It really helps stabilize the top during RF changes. Since yours is more a matter of being under braced you may consider .030 or doubling .022.

I use the .022 thickness and epoxy to join.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Might be a good candidate for a Bridge Doctor.