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I am making some nuts for a couple of guitars. At this time on my own. When installing it, I found that I was out of Super Glue.

Since I tie flies, I thought what the heck and used the head cement. Using a bobbin, and just a slight amount I held and seems to be clear and no discoloration issues.

This however needs to on occasion be thinned when using it as it can gum and dry up if one forgets to put the lid back on the bottle. Or I was told that anyway to keep from having to take responsibility for drying out a 1/2 bottle. I check it before each use now to see if need to thin it out some.

It hold the nut in place and after letting it dry a few days, went back to see if it held up or pulled loose. So far very good adhesion. Also a little easier to tap off than CA. So right now it is adhesive of choice for this work. I am actually going to try it for other applications on test stuff.

Now remember. This is something I am testing out and not recommending folks run out to the nearest fly shop or go on line and use. Suggest letting me try it on some applications and report back in a month or so. Also, I bet others far better than me have tried this, so not claiming this is my idea

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use Super Glue for nuts.

A dot or two of Titebond or even Elmer's is sufficient to hold a nut in place once string tension is applied.
They are supposed to be removable, you know?

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Chris, I've been taught by multiple sources to put a dot of CA on the nut in the center of the side that makes contact with the fretboard. So far my experience with getting them back out is a light tap with a wood block and a fretting hammer and they come right back out.

Sounds like you've had experience with fighting to get them out. Do you know how the CA was applied in those cases?

Brad


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I don't think the problem is the adhesive so much as it is the amount used...fill the nut slot with any glue and it's going to be a miserable job to remove it.

We use a tiny dab of three lb cut shellac or medium CA - no more than a tiny dot (1/16" diameter is plenty of stick)...both glues are brittle, so fracture with a tap, while Titebond is quite elastic, and thus, less likely to release as readily. For nuts that cannot be released with a rearward tap, such as Fender-style, we place a tiny dot of shellac on the bottom of the slot on the bass side (readily shears with a light tap sideways, then upwards), while others get a tiny dot of sticky stuff between fret board end and face of nut.

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We have become a civilization that elevates idiots, prostitutes, and clowns. Am I still to defend it? Yes, for its principles. Yes, for what it was. Yes, for what it still may be.

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CA works very well for holding nuts in. Just a tiny dot as Woodie said.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Interesting. I've always used a dab ot titebond. After one or two string changes it seems to come loose.

I think I'll try a dab of medium ca next time just for fun

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Joe a little dab will do ya. A whole lot of dab is bad

Dang, there could be a song in that

I use CA, but only on the endgrain of the FB. Never any glue on the bottom of the nut.

I'm very sensitive about what I put on my nuts.

These days I'm liking just a very small dot of slow CA so that I have time to get the sides perfectly flush before it grabs. I put it on the end of the fret board, not in the bottom of the channel. As Brad said just a good tap with a block of wood and fretting hammer and the glue bond breaks and the nut leans backwards.

But you know too... back in the days when our friend Mario participated here he was keen to advocate fitting nuts so very well that they snap in place and the dot of glue is only insurance. I do this too these days and just did one yesterday that audibly snapped in place and of course the glue, a very small dot was insurance.

YNMV

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Ann Arbor Guitars

Deleted because of stupid and not a computer guy

You're right Hesh on the idea of a touch of thicker ca. I Only put a small dab with on the fingerboard also, so that it just touches the face of the nut.

I will always take the time to fit it tight and right so any adhesive is just a little insurance. Feels good in the end.

The thing for me is yes time can be money, but sloppy jobs can mean lack of jobs and well.....money.

Usually takes me 30-45 minutes for a nut. For some odd reason I struggle more with the stupid saddle than anything.

Not too interested in what you put on yer nutz, Hesh, but yellow glue (I always used Elmer's Carpentry) dot on end of F/B worked for us old guys nicely and gave the time to adjust before setting. I've always thought, "How soon do you take the strings off after it's all set up?"
Instantly?
BTW, Stan, we always used Cya to finish the heads off on flies...would drop a dot on the sharp end of a bodkin and apply. Matter of fact, we used a lot of Cya in fly tying. Works like a champ!

I'm probably missing something, but why do you apply glue of any sort to the nut? On the 5 guitars I've built, I just fit the nut to be a snug fit and call it good. I might need to make sure it is in correct position at string changes which is trivial, but they never move when the strings are on.

Is it so your customers don't lose them? I must confess I've kept all I've built for my wife and myself,
Mike

Mike your guitars get great care I'm sure and as such you keep them in acceptable RH environments. Me too.

Sadly some of the folks who purchase guitars from us or a major f*ctory may not keep the instrument in decent RH at times. Wood moves.... and things that once were tight tolerances may not always remain that way.

It's very common for many types of guitars to lose their nuts during a string change. We have a Gibson hanging in the shop for fret work that yesterday when Dave was trying our a shredder through the dirty tube amp the sonic vibration from his playing made the nut fall out and we had a good laugh about it. Everyone's a critic.....

Some guitars such as Seagulls don't have a head plate so there is nothing behind the nut. I like Seagulls and all of the Godin line and think it's a great company too competing with Asian imports, doing quality work and treating their employees very well too and all in North America! It can be done! Anyway I digress but Seagulls are nut shedders very commonly because there is no mechanical fit of the nut, just glue that can fail at times also because of RH swings I suspect.

It's important or at least it always was for me to try to anticipate every stupid, dumb arse thing that someone who has one of my creations may do and plan for it. That's why we build with heirloom instruments in mind and with a little luck and care someone may be wondering who you were as a person some day when they are playing one of yours and it's 100 years old.

Haans knows what I'm talking about I'm sure. I've always loved Haan's guitars and mandos!

Also the reason why Martin and others know that thinner tops, less bracing etc might make a more responsive guitar but they don't always go there is again because some jerk may leave it in the trunk of a black Tesla in the long term at LAX in July....

That's why we use a drop, just a drop.... of glue on the end of the fretboard AND endeavor to have a nut fit sung enough that it snaps in place.

There is also the philosophical argument.... what's the harm of a drop of glue?

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Ann Arbor Guitars

thanks Hesh,
I wasn't against the drop of glue, just wasn't sure if I was missing something.

And you are right. My environment is humidity controlled to keep my guitars and Steinway grand comfortable. I don't mention the Steinway as a name dropper, but to explain why I'm obsessive to keep the humidity correct.

When I sell a guitar, I'll go ahead and put that drop of glue there!
Mike

Couldn't resist, could ya! [GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]


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