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 Post subject: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:46 am 
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Mahogany
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Hi Folks

I have a few necks that I want to save the truss rods from.
What are some methods that can be used to remove the fingerboards(Titebond)from the neck?

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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:59 am 
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If you don't care about the fretboard, pull those frets out, put an iron on a slightly damp rag or paper towel, and have some fun. The heat and moisture will release the glue. Just separate it with a knife.


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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:35 am 
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An iron ON the frets will also heat the glue enough to loosen it. Most wood glues start breaking down around 180 degrees. Just work your way from one end to the other.

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These users thanked the author Chris Pile for the post: Imbler (Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:42 am)
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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:42 am 
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Chris Pile wrote:
An iron ON the frets will also heat the glue enough to loosen it. Most wood glues start breaking down around 180 degrees. Just work your way from one end to the other.

Thanks, I was wondering how they released the neck extension when doing a reset,
Mike


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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 1:31 pm 
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Mahogany
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James Orr wrote:
If you don't care about the fretboard, pull those frets out, put an iron on a slightly damp rag or paper towel, and have some fun. The heat and moisture will release the glue. Just separate it with a knife.



Is the water a must or will it just help it along?I guess what I am asking is can I remove it dry?

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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 1:46 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Some people use special sized heating blankets as well, no water really needed


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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 2:14 pm 
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Cocobolo
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I did this recently to make a non accessable truss rod accsessable... just place an normal cloths iron atop the frets and work your way down with a pallet knife.

G.

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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:25 am 
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Since you brought up the fingerboard extension area: As when removing a bridge, be mindful that runout can lead your pallet knife to dig into the top, as opposed to skimming the surface. I try to keep my knife at a 45 degree angle, switching from one side to the other (bass and treble), without crossing the center seam. Done properly, the piece will release gently, leaving the top nice and tidy, ready for scraping and easy clean up. Once the fingerboard extension is clear, I slide a piece of paper beneath it to prevent the glue from grabbing as I work my way up toward the nut.

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These users thanked the author George L for the post (total 2): ernie (Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:22 am) • Imbler (Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:34 am)
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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2017 11:41 am 
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I find leaving the frets in actually help conduct the heat to the bottom of the board, where you want it. I have custom-sized heat blankets that work, slowly, but find that an iron works faster.


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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2017 8:56 pm 
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A nice sharp axe would be the fastest way

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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 12:23 pm 
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But controlled removal would be great practice!

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 1:39 pm 
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Imbler wrote:
Chris Pile wrote:
An iron ON the frets will also heat the glue enough to loosen it. Most wood glues start breaking down around 180 degrees. Just work your way from one end to the other.

Thanks, I was wondering how they released the neck extension when doing a reset,
Mike


Using a 250 watt heat lamp and cardboard shield lined on the out side with foil, shiny side out/up is pretty common these days. Never leave it unattended.....

What I really wanted to comment on is that jumping through your sphincter to remove a fret board is not good practice for much of anything. In the world of professional Luthiers removing a fret board is very few and very far between with even decades going by never needing to do this.

If you enjoy disassembling guitars to recover parts go for it but this is about as useful a learning experience as sawing off a dowelled on neck and resetting it. It will never be done on a time and materials basis by a pro because the economics are not there.

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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 2:59 pm 
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Quote:
Never leave it unattended.....


You got that right, Hesh. I know an instructor who has been at Red Wing for a long time who turned the neck of a 60's Les Paul into charcoal because he went home for supper and forgot until about midnight. He lucked out..... no one ever came to claim the axe because the client was old and passed away.

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These users thanked the author Chris Pile for the post: Hesh (Sun Aug 27, 2017 9:04 pm)
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 Post subject: Re: Fingerboard removal
PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:01 pm 
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I take a chisel and split the neck from the back. Then throw the neck away and keep the fretboard and truss rod for future projects

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