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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 12:40 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Raleigh, NC
First name: Steve
Last Name: Sollod
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After seeing a post on the OLF a while back about this glue I gave it a try and really like it. It does behave very similar to the original LMI white glue that was replaced with the yellow they now sell. The new LMI glue works okay but it can leave an obvious glue line. That's why I tried the Translucent glue. ...and I like the fast set and how it behaves when scraping squeeze out.

Here is a question - I previously have used the LMI glue for gluing bridges and it has worked fine. The translucent glue says on the front of the bottle, "Bonds Stronger Than Wood". On the back of the bottle it says, "Not for structural or load bearing applications". So... is it strong enough to use to glue on a bridge? I'm getting ready to glue on a bridge and need to know if I should use the Translucent glue or the LMI yellow.

Frankly, I'd prefer to use the Translucent. What so you think?

Thanks,
Steve

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www.swiftcreekguitars.com


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 3:17 pm 
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First name: colin
Last Name: north
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I know that Titebond original also says " Not for structural or load bearing applications." and there are quite a lot of guitars built completely with it that still have firmly attached bridges.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 5:11 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:27 pm
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Last Name: Cox
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Legalese... Structural and load bearing stuff has significant legal implications and typically has to be certified by an outside agency for such. Glue joint strength is typically 100% about the joint prep and fitment.. The glue itself is very weak and unreliable. Since they can't control the quality of the joints other folks prepare - their lawyers probably made them put the disclaimer on there...

On the glue lines being visible... PVA wood glues including titebond have been designed not to darken wood. This naturally leads to a much less visible glue line than something like Superglue - which significantly darkens the surrounding wood.. As such - the appearance of the glue line is heavily dependent on joint prep. As my joint chops continue to improve - my glue lines have progressively become less visible... Especially on tops and backs where I now joint with a plane... I have problems finding my joints if I don't mark them before gluing... And that's with plain old garden variety Titebond I... Its a different story with superglue - which leaves a dark line where it soaked in...



These users thanked the author truckjohn for the post: Colin North (Sat Sep 23, 2017 5:25 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 5:39 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Raleigh, NC
First name: Steve
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The only place I've had any visible glue issues with the LMI yellow was on a scarf joint. Granted, my jointing could probably have been better, but the glue showed yellow. If I had used a clear glue, the joint would not have been as visible. That's why I thought I'd try the translucent. After hearing Colin's comments, I went ahead and used the translucent on the bridge. I suspect it will be fine...

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www.swiftcreekguitars.com


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 9:12 am 
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First name: Ed
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My guess is that LMI has the glue made by one of the big boys - perhaps it has 1 or 2 additives to make it a little different. Since the big boys' glue is used in houses and furniture, they have that "not structural" statement in there to protect themselves from the guy who glues together 2 floor joists using frozen wood and has it fail down the line. They might have the same sgtatement required on all their glues.

Ed


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 9:58 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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First name: John
Last Name: Cox
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There are wood glues that are "structural adhesives".... Think liquid nails..... That stuff makes horrible fat, ugly woodworking glue joints, it cold creeps like crazy, and never really hardens..... But it also still "works" when carpenters leave a nice 1/8" gap in the joint......


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 2:01 pm 
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Steve, I have also been planning to drop the current LMI glue and, based on previous threads, I have been thinking of giving Titebond Extend a try, but I do like the idea of the Translucent glue not drying yellow.

I e-mailed Titebond and asked whether the characteristics of Titebond Translucent are like Titebond Original or Extend, or like one of their other glues. Here's the reply:

"Yes, Titebond Translucent is similar in properties to Titebond Original. Titebond Extend will have a longer open time and better creep resistance. I hope this helps."

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These users thanked the author J De Rocher for the post: Pmaj7 (Thu Sep 28, 2017 3:16 pm)
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