. . . the brace end would hit the side stopping it right at that point. In fact I insert a 1/32in little shim at each brace end so that when I rout out bindings I can remove it and then I will have some room for expansion.

I have a question based on the replies so far. Is everyone placing the top or back on top of the sides and then marking the brace locations on the outside of the sides? I ask because I place the braced top or back on the radius dish braces up and then position the sides (in the body mold) on top and then mark exactly where the braces intersect the inside surface of the lining. To my mind, that eliminates a couple potential sources of error in locating the pockets accurately and no clamps other than gravity are needed because the weight of the body mold holds everything in place fine.

Of course, this wouldn't work with the adjustable mold that Terence shows in the photo above.

I've been chiseling out the pockets like a sucker and not going through the whole rim. It is still fast enough that I donn't think it would be worth it for me to pull out the router and set it up. But, all this talk about routers makes me realize I should just cut my notches all the way through the rim. That will make it even faster to fit everything!