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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 1:48 pm 
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Terence Kennedy wrote:
I got one of the StewMac Z files for crowning frets. I really like it.


Which version did you get?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 2:36 pm 
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I got the original Z file several months ago after Clinchriver made me give him his back :o

I still use my diamond fret files and the triangular file but I find myself using the Z file about half the time, I like it.

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These users thanked the author SteveSmith for the post: Clinchriver (Fri Mar 30, 2018 4:57 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 2:56 pm 
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J De Rocher wrote:
Terence Kennedy wrote:
I got one of the StewMac Z files for crowning frets. I really like it.


Which version did you get?


The original. I leveled out some frets on a cheap guitar that had deep grooves at the north end. It was borderline for a refret so I had big flats afterwards. The Z made it surprisingly easy to get them rounded off. Finished off with the diamond.

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These users thanked the author Terence Kennedy for the post (total 2): J De Rocher (Fri Mar 30, 2018 4:12 pm) • Pmaj7 (Fri Mar 30, 2018 3:06 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2018 6:57 am 
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Two consumables that I stumbled on that I could not live without.

Self adhesive foam sheets. They are great for making a quick non marring surface (guitar holder or top protector...) and also wonderful when you need to clamp a slightly irregular surface or make a softer surface sanding block.... the uses for me are endless.
https://www.amazon.com/Darice-1040-56-F ... icky+brick

Slats from 2" wide wood or faux wood window blinds. I put up,some new blinds with the wider 2" slats and looked at the extras and thought there must be something I could use them for. I now use them almost exclusively to prevent marring the back of a surface while clamping. Especially when clamping scarf joints, finger boards to neck blanks or face plates to head stocks. They are thick enough to prevent dents but can be easily snapped to length and lightly taped into place.

They work for me maybe they'll work for you to.

Kent


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 2:50 pm 
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Any idea what the difference between Olfa's KB4 #11 blades and the XB-157T blades are?
Their documentation seems to be a bit lacking..
The KB4 is reputed to be some sort of regular high carbon steel.. Is the XB-157 stainless?

Reason I ask is that the KB4 blades are available in 100 packs...

Thanks

Woodie G wrote:
A Better X-ACTO Knife: We had a stash of 1970's vintage #11 blades that were just about exhausted when I showed up here to work a few years ago. The replacement blades I found (EXCEL brand) were made in China and were terrible, with soft, poorly-shaped, easily dulled edges...and they would barely stay in our classic, worn-out handles. After looking for better blades, I found an entirely new Japanese-sourced OLFA 9164 Ak-4 handle and blade selection (with the XB-157T blade mapping to X-ACTO's #11). The handle uses a very positive brass and steel clutch mechanism to hold the blade, has an acetone-resistant, faceted, non-rolling handle, and come with perfectly honed, defect-free assortment of blades of consistent sharpness. Highly recommended.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O87TQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Link (Blades): https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-Art-Knife-Straight-5-pack/dp/B001KO75UI/ref=pd_sbs_229_23?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001KO75UI&pd_rd_r=YC71BC0Y37MV93XBAWCY&pd_rd_w=uSUTn&pd_rd_wg=sMe7S&refRID=YC71BC0Y37MV93XBAWCY&th=1



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 5:08 pm 
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Just made a dozen of these cam clamps, and used 1/4" bar instead of 1/8".
https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/pla ... cam-clamps

Also picked up 2 Shapton Ceramic Stones, 1000 & 8000 and its completely changing what I do with blades. Got a flattening stone coming in.

Made a shooting board based on Rob Cosman's vid. Used it for cleaning up my cam clamps, and with my "new" #6 Bailey.

"New" 1902 Bailey #6, Veritas PMV11 blade. Shoot away!



These users thanked the author Aaron O for the post: bcombs510 (Wed Apr 04, 2018 8:57 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 6:24 am 
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truckjohn wrote:
Any idea what the difference between Olfa's KB4 #11 blades and the XB-157T blades are?
Their documentation seems to be a bit lacking..
The KB4 is reputed to be some sort of regular high carbon steel.. Is the XB-157 stainless?

Reason I ask is that the KB4 blades are available in 100 packs...

Thanks



Mr. Cox:

I did a quick check on the shop's Google Docs order spreadsheet to see what we had ordered, and saw that the boss subsequently purchased a 100-pack directly from OLFA with economy ground delivery for about $54. Both the linked 5-pack of blades from my earlier post and the 100 pack linked below are described as high carbon tool steel on both Amazon and OLFA Direct sites...and as the blades re-hone easily, I suspect they are not anything too exotic in terms of alloy. It looks as though the XB-157T designation for the 5 pack is the seller's stockage code, rather than a different blade or blade material...I apologize for the confusion...these are the standard KB4-S blades.

Here is the link to the Amazon item:

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Art-Blade-AK-4-PK100/dp/B00AN9IJT2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522925325&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=olfa+kb4+100+pack

...and to the OLFA Direct page where the blades are on sale:

http://www.buyolfa.com/olfa-kb4-s-100-model-1107451-precision-blades.html

I hope you find them as useful as we have.

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We have become a civilization that elevates idiots, prostitutes, and clowns. Am I still to defend it? Yes, for its principles. Yes, for what it was. Yes, for what it still may be.

-Mark Helprin, The Oceans and the Stars: A Sea Story, A War Story, A Love Story (A Novel)



These users thanked the author Woodie G for the post: Pmaj7 (Thu Apr 05, 2018 11:08 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 1:49 pm 
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Woodie,

Thanks for that...

I think I will proceed with the 100 pack of the KB4-S blades.. Just what the doctor ordered.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 3:27 pm 
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12' and 40' radius dishes. Set of 12 Guitar Profile and Brace Pattern Stencils.
Shapton 5,000, Naniwa 10,000, a flattening stone, and a 1' Narex paring chisel.
Also a new 240 V blanket, I retired the 110V version after the voltage convertor self destructed fairly spectacularly in the middle of a bend, which I had to finish with the light bulbs on their own :idea:
Roll of non stick baking paper.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 5:38 pm 
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Here's a consumable I like:

The large rolls of 3M Stikit Gold 2 3/4" wide PSA sandpaper. StewMac sells small (as in a small amount) rolls that are wrapped around a cardboard tube the diameter of what you get with packing tape. No offense to StewMac (the source of many wonderful things), but you can get a better deal on the large rolls online. They are huge in comparison, and they come wrapped around cardboard more the diameter of what is inside a roll of paper towels. I hate running out of sandpaper, and I love saving money on larger quantities (if I will actually use this much, which I am sure I will).


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 11:16 pm 
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Same as Don on the big 3M rolls. Great stuff! The only one that I couldn't find bigger and cheaper was the 600. P600 mind you. That's about 400 merican.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 4:31 am 
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Pat, for sandpaper over 320 grit, I keep a decent stock of PSA disks up to insanely fine grits for use on my Worksharp sharpener. If I need the finer grits for hand sanding, I just cut some of those up. I keep my 4 grits of 3M Stikit (80, 120, 220, 320) together on one horizontally oriented paper towel dispenser, because those are what I use most. The dispenser operates as a handy little caddy that I can move around to where it is needed.



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 7:49 am 
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Colin North wrote:
:idea:
Roll of non stick baking paper.


I am not certain that anyone has established that the silicone oil which non-stick baking paper/parchment paper is infused with will transfer to adjacent surfaces during bending. We continue to use natural and bleached kraft paper in lieu of parchment for that reason, as well as kraft's ability to hold water and function as the moisture reservoir during the bending process.

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We have become a civilization that elevates idiots, prostitutes, and clowns. Am I still to defend it? Yes, for its principles. Yes, for what it was. Yes, for what it still may be.

-Mark Helprin, The Oceans and the Stars: A Sea Story, A War Story, A Love Story (A Novel)



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 8:50 am 
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I bought the Olfa knife....
LOVE it!!



These users thanked the author Brad Goodman for the post (total 2): Pmaj7 (Fri Apr 06, 2018 11:03 am) • Woodie G (Fri Apr 06, 2018 8:53 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 1:00 pm 
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Woodie G wrote:
Colin North wrote:
:idea:
Roll of non stick baking paper.


I am not certain that anyone has established that the silicone oil which non-stick baking paper/parchment paper is infused with will transfer to adjacent surfaces during bending. We continue to use natural and bleached kraft paper in lieu of parchment for that reason, as well as kraft's ability to hold water and function as the moisture reservoir during the bending process.


I don't know why you thought I might use that for side bending..... idunno
Just handy during glue-ups to stop cauls sticking to squeeze out when parcel tape doesn't suit.
I use heavy wall lining paper for side bending.

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 1:43 pm 
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Woodie G wrote:
What new tools and consumables have you discovered lately ? How well do they work in your shop?

* * *

Head Mounted Magnifiers: The shop's options up through a few weeks ago were the coif-destroying OptiVisor or my surgical loupes. The OptiVisor - besides being the preferred device in some circles to achieve that 'just slept in my baseball cap' look - limits peripheral vision and has a limited number of close-up lighting options. Further, the visor and lens set is quite expensive - well over $100 for the visor and most useful magnification lenses. The surgical loupes are comfortable, but offer just one magnification and are a pain to flip up...and about $600 for a pair of middling quality. We've been trialing several options and have settled on a $13 eyeglass or elastic headband set with 5 included lenses and a nice, bright, easily directed pair of LED illuminators. The magnifiers can be worn without the batteries installed, or the 3 AAA batteries can be installed at the cost of between 3/4 ounce (Lithium) and 1-1/4 ounces of added weight on the bridge of the nose. Further, the magnifier can be worn over glasses with a little adjustment, although it can get a bit crowded on the bridge of the nose if the glass frames are bulky. The review video is linked not so much because of its stellar insights into the nature of the magnifier, but because the soundtrack is from one of my favorite 1980's cuts of all time - The Outfield's 'Your Love' off of Play Deep. Super-danceable, even if I did get tired of the refrain substituting for a better thought-out pickup line from the wit-challenged but romantically-inclined. These magnifiers are offered by a number of retailers on Amazon and Ebay - all seem identical and should cost about $13 per set delivered, with one-day service through Prime offered at that price.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Headband-Magnifier-Handsfree-Extension-Replaceable/dp/B077D5Z29W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522267819&sr=8-2&keywords=vorey

Review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEwg9L7_eoI



Bought these glasses. Haven’t used them much yet, but they are much better quality than I honestly expected for the money. Thanks for the recommendation.

-Aaron



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 5:47 pm 
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Colin North wrote:
I don't know why you thought I might use that for side bending..... idunno


Probably because that was my idea...until my attention was directed to the ingredients! There is no smilie for whacking self in forehead.

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We have become a civilization that elevates idiots, prostitutes, and clowns. Am I still to defend it? Yes, for its principles. Yes, for what it was. Yes, for what it still may be.

-Mark Helprin, The Oceans and the Stars: A Sea Story, A War Story, A Love Story (A Novel)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 7:11 pm 
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Alot of good tips in this thread.

I've been really trying to find a creative way to streamline my polishing for things like frets/saddles/nuts etc... Micromesh is great but when you're doing 2-3 full refrets every 2 weeks I start to cramp up even when I switch hands alot.

A jeweler that brings me work recommended I look into a grinder setup to do buffing. I decided to go for something burly so I went with an old Dumore grinder. This one didn't need any work, built like a tank. Makes a Dremel seem like a cheap plastic toy. This one originally would've come with an attachment to use as a toolpost grinder. I plan on buying another one to have setup for other tasks. Going to experiment a bit with the tooling for it.

Image


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 8:04 am 
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We use a low speed 8" grinder - the less expensive one from Rikon is similar - to run two 8" x 1" sewn muslin wheels for polishing. The grinder is set on the corner of a work stand at 45 degrees...good access from both sides for both wheels. The medium Menzerna stick compound gives a very nice buff to nickel silver, EVO, and stainless frets prepped up to P800, and the 3M standard blue tape holds up to a good buffing session without much in the way of cut-throughs. While not all of the hand polishing steps are eliminated, the most tedious work is, and a level/crown/polish is usually an hour or less...even with taping.

Speaking of taping, having 1/4" and 1/2" width rolls on a multi-roll dispenser - along with the 1" - makes taping up quicker, as does running a length of the low-tack Stewmac paper tape down the sides of the neck just beneath the edge of the board prior to taping up the face. We also tape the area adjacent to the extension with two layers of the wide very low tack 3" tape and a single layer of the 1" tape to make removal from the extension tape quicker. The very low tack tape also protects delicate lacquer finishes better than other options.

Also...we load a three roll dispenser with three rolls of 1/4", two rolls of 1/2", and a roll of 1"...with one of the 1/4" and 1/2" rolls active at any given time. Here is the link to a tape dispenser essentially identical to the Inline model we use:

https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-SL7336-Steel-Dispenser-Diameter/dp/B000ZJQD6G/ref=pd_sbs_236_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000ZJQD6G&pd_rd_r=R1PWSSHGRH3N97Z7GDQJ&pd_rd_w=O0HYu&pd_rd_wg=MaeJg&psc=1&refRID=R1PWSSHGRH3N97Z7GDQJ

Here are links to the Xfasten and 3M tapes we use:

https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Professional-Painters-Multi-Use-60-Yard/dp/B06VXSY9ZR/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1523191005&sr=1-3&keywords=1%2F2%22+masking+tape+blue

https://www.zoro.com/3m-masking-tape-paper-blue-14-2090/i/G4190496/

Here is the link to the Stewmac low tack tape we use:

http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Glues_and_Adhesives/Tapes_and_Adhesives/Low_Tack_Protective_Tape.html

And a link to the buffing wheels we use on our low speed fret buffer (also handles rosewoods and ebony bridges, etc.):

https://www.amazon.com/Extra-Thick-Spiral-Buffing-Wheel/dp/B0009S88D4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523192550&sr=8-3&keywords=8%22+buffing+wheel

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We have become a civilization that elevates idiots, prostitutes, and clowns. Am I still to defend it? Yes, for its principles. Yes, for what it was. Yes, for what it still may be.

-Mark Helprin, The Oceans and the Stars: A Sea Story, A War Story, A Love Story (A Novel)



These users thanked the author Woodie G for the post (total 2): DanKirkland (Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:34 am) • Pmaj7 (Sun Apr 08, 2018 8:59 am)
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:12 am 
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Aaron O wrote:
Also picked up 2 Shapton Ceramic Stones, 1000 & 8000 and its completely changing what I do with blades. Got a flattening stone coming in.


Aaron, I have not heard of these stones before. I was getting ready to order some King water stones but I need to check these out first. Do the Shapton stones have the same friable surface as regular water stones that keeps them from getting clogged?
Thanks.
Tom

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:32 am 
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TRein wrote:
Aaron O wrote:
Also picked up 2 Shapton Ceramic Stones, 1000 & 8000 and its completely changing what I do with blades. Got a flattening stone coming in.


Aaron, I have not heard of these stones before. I was getting ready to order some King water stones but I need to check these out first. Do the Shapton stones have the same friable surface as regular water stones that keeps them from getting clogged?
Thanks.
Tom


Shaptons are splash and go stones, very fast and they work quickly on the harder steel types. You do need a way to keep them flat, a simple Atoma diamond stone or a DMT works well. I use a medium/fine grit and it keeps mine in good shape. The grits I've used are 1k 5k and 8k with a strop to finish. Gives a nice sheen and a great edge provided you practice using them.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:37 am 
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Woodie G wrote:
We use a low speed 8" grinder - the less expensive one from Rikon is similar - to run two 8" x 1" sewn muslin wheels for polishing. The grinder is set on the corner of a work stand at 45 degrees...good access from both sides for both wheels. The medium Menzerna stick compound gives a very nice buff to nickel silver, EVO, and stainless frets prepped up to P800, and the 3M standard blue tape holds up to a good buffing session without much in the way of cut-throughs. While not all of the hand polishing steps are eliminated, the most tedious work is, and a level/crown/polish is usually an hour or less...even with taping.



Thanks for that Woodie, if I had the space for a grinder like that I'd have one. Right now the shop is limited to a pretty tight space so I have to be creative with my tooling. I'll check out the menzerna stick compound you mentioned, and you are right, the blue tape holds up fantastic to rough work. If I could get a level crown and polish down to under an hour I'd be a VERY happy individual. Right now I'm at about 2 hrs tops start to finish, not good for business.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 11:36 am 
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I just got a Shapton 8000 Grit and it's very nice. I hope it's not too consumable! I have been using a Norton 8000 grit, and interestingly the Norton is 3 Micron where the Shapton is 2 micron. Call me crazy, but I think I can notice the difference. Both fine Stones however.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 6:42 pm 
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I’ve been resisting this, partly due to respect for you all in the US but I recently bought a steel rule marked only in milimeters rather than centimeters. This is so much easier to use - I only ever use milimeters and the old rule just used to confuse me. And there are no inches anywhere!

Dave


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 11:43 am 
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Another new tool I like (actually a bit of safety equipment):

Elvex safety glasses that have my eyeglass prescription's magnification level on the whole front of the lens, not just as a bifocal. They are ANSI Z87.1-2010 compliant. Less than $12 each. Are they prescription safety glasses? No. It would cost me a huge amount of money to get progressive lenses in safety glasses. These do what I want for a fraction of the money.

The limitation to these glasses is that they blur my distance vision a little bit (I'm far sighted). But when I am working wood, the things that are 10 feet away are not as important as the things that are within 4 feet. It is the stuff within 4 feet that can hurt me if I can't see clearly, and that is the stuff these safety glasses let me see very well. And at less than $12 each, I can keep multiple sets handy in several spots.


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