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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 4:21 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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First name: Bryan
Last Name: Bear
City: St. Louis
State: Mo
Country: USA
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Status: Amateur
J De Rocher wrote:
I can only speak for the Target Coatings waterborne finish, but their EMTECH USH3000 sealer has shellac in it and it does a fine job of wetting the wood and bringing out the grain. I've used that on mahogany, Indian rosewood, bubinga, curly maple, Macassar ebony, koa, sycamore, and cocobolo without epoxy and it looks great. The bubinga looks like you should be able to dip your finger into the curly figuring.

That said, the epoxy I've been using (z-poxy) gives additional depth to the appearance and I use that on woods that require pore filling. In my case, I level sand to a very thin coat and any sand through is taken care of with a 50:50 z-poxy:alcohol wash coat wiped on with a paper towel to give a uniform look.


I'm trying Z-poxy for the first time now and want to do a think last coat on the surface thinned with epoxy. My tests have been a little disappointing in that I am not getting that last wash coat to go on as thin as I'd like. You have me thinking I am not thinning enough with alcohol. are you thinning 50:50 by volume or weight? I think I could get away with more alcohol, I'm not close to 50:50.

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 5:16 pm 
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First name: Jay
Last Name: De Rocher
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Bryan Bear wrote:
I'm trying Z-poxy for the first time now and want to do a think last coat on the surface thinned with epoxy. My tests have been a little disappointing in that I am not getting that last wash coat to go on as thin as I'd like. You have me thinking I am not thinning enough with alcohol. are you thinning 50:50 by volume or weight? I think I could get away with more alcohol, I'm not close to 50:50.


50:50 by volume, and then stirred thoroughly to mix. At that ratio it's no longer viscous, more like water.

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These users thanked the author J De Rocher for the post: Bryan Bear (Mon May 07, 2018 11:08 pm)
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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 9:05 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Virginia
Ok I see now, that makes sense. I might have to try that some day. I'm always on the search for the perfect finish, I guess we all are. I had to give up on waterborne finishes years ago because I just could not get consistent with it. One day it would look great the next guitar would be a disaster.

The one thing I do fear though is getting sensitized to epoxy. do you take any protective measures with it? Would a mask even help I wonder? I would probably do it outside like I do most of my dangerous chemical stuff.


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 12:03 pm 
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jfmckenna wrote:
The one thing I do fear though is getting sensitized to epoxy. do you take any protective measures with it? Would a mask even help I wonder? I would probably do it outside like I do most of my dangerous chemical stuff.


So far, I've only used z-poxy so the protective measures I take may or may not apply to other epoxies or for users that are susceptible to sensitization. I apply z-poxy in the shop. I wear gloves during application but no mask. Application of z-poxy involves very small amounts of the stuff. I only need to mix a total of 1/4 fluid ounce to to do the back and sides and 1 tsp to do the neck. The total time to do one round of application is about 15 minutes so the exposure time to those small amounts is short. For scraping and sanding I always wear a mask and have the Jet air filtration system running the whole time and for a while afterwards and then thoroughly vacuum the bench and the surrounding floor. I haven't had any ill effects from using it, but people vary in their sensitivity to different chemicals.

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These users thanked the author J De Rocher for the post: jfmckenna (Tue May 08, 2018 12:46 pm)
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