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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2021 1:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:47 pm
Posts: 2423
First name: Jay
Last Name: De Rocher
City: Bothell
State: Washington
banjopicks wrote:
I used a scraper for a lot of it but I obviously didn't go far enough. If I had I probably would have thrown those sides away. I need to get better at bending and fitting to the mold. I remember struggling and putting a lot of pressure on these sides to get them where I wanted. Anyway, I started a new thread to discuss this and I have a fresh set on the bench.


I had problems on my first two guitars with the binding ending up thin in some areas. I changed my approach and sequence of steps for leveling the sides and installing the binding and have had no problems since.

Most importantly, for me, I get the sides absolutely dead flat so that all the sanding of the sides is completely done before cutting the binding channels. If you don't have to do anymore sanding of the sides after the binding is installed and the binding channels are cut properly, it's pretty much impossible to sand the binding too thin.

Early on, I used a scraper but I found that I get better results (flatter) using a block of 3/4 plywood with adhesive-backed sandpaper on it to level the sides everywhere except the waist. The block is about 3" x 7" so it spans the side from edge to edge while sanding and it makes the side dead flat. I use a piece of PVC pipe with adhesive-backed sandpaper on it for the waist. I also thoroughly crosshatch mark the sides with a China marker pencil so I can see if there are any low spots that still need to be sanded out (like in the photo).

I install the binding about 0.002" proud of the sides. That makes it a quick job to level the binding to the sides. I use the sanding block and pipe to level both the top and back bindings to the sides at the same time so that ensures that the bindings get sanded only until they are flush with the sides and no further.

There are other ways to do this that work too, but this is what works for me.

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Level sanding sides.jpg


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These users thanked the author J De Rocher for the post: Barry Daniels (Mon Oct 04, 2021 4:01 pm)
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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2021 2:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 1337
First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Attachment:
20211004_152309_copy_800x715.jpg
it's taking a rest.


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2023 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 1337
First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Now that I'm on to a second body, I was considering using the neck from this one. Having time to calm down after this mistake, I'm reconsidering fixing it and going ahead finishing it. The neck is already fit to this with a dovetail so, I can't see any reason not to complete it along with #2. I have to at least see how it sounds and plays. I also need to see how the EM6000 comes out. So I have one little area that I may be able to carve a little deeper and add a piece of rosewood or, just paint the spot to match. I'll get some pictures next time I'm in the shop. See what you think.

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Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!


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