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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 8:08 am 
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Koa
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I tested it and it works but I want to add some fine adjustment to it. I could use it like it is but I think it might be difficult to accurately adjust.

BTW, this is scrap spruce.
Attachment:
CircleCutter1 (WC).jpg


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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:06 am 
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Koa
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I started making a couple more cam clamps for attaching top braces in the spare air conditioned room. I have a go-bar deck in the basement for winter stuff but it isn't portable. I would be building more but I have to get some more maple boards, I used up all I had.

If you look close you might see some burning from the cheap bit I borrowed from a friend. I may try to sharpen it. Any tips on that?

I think I need to start using my Nikon for pictures, they always need rotating from my phone.

Attachment:
20190710_074733.jpg


Attachment:
20190710_075202.jpg


Trying something

Attachment:
20190710_075202 (2).jpg


Seems I need to crop and resize with a different program. Sheesh!


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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2019 8:28 am 
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Koa
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Made a practice run with my clamps while I wait for the the dehumdifier to do it's job. 45% RH is my target. Probably the worst time of the year but if I can't get it in the basement, I'll bring it upstairs. Anyway, here's why I built those cam clamps. I shaped the braces to the plan instead of my DIY dish. There was too much discrepancy so I'm gluing them free standing.

In the meantime, I've started working on my neck and dovetail template. More photos to come.

Attachment:
20190719_064347 (WC).jpg


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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 12:43 pm 
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Koa
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Started hand cutting the dovetail this morning with a yard sale backsaw. It's a little rusty but cuts real good. I thought I was going to have to sharpen it but no need. I'm going to finish it with the router plane to get it perfectly level tonight or tomorrow.

Attachment:
20190801_065912-1.jpg


I was trying various ways to level it before remembering I have the router plane.

Attachment:
20190801_081500-1.jpg


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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2019 10:21 am 
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Koa
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Got a little further along over the weekend. The diamond valute is going to be a challenge.

Attachment:
Neck_Dovetail_View.jpg


This was very satisfying.
Attachment:
Neck_Spokeshaving.jpg


Attachment:
Neck-Back_View.jpg


Attachment:
Neck-Top-View.jpg


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_________________
Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2019 5:42 pm 
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First name: Ed
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Hutch

You are a better man than I if you could get that router plane to work on that end grain - good job

Ed Minch


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2019 5:39 am 
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Koa
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I'm not and I didn't. I had to use a paring chisel. I'm buying a laminate router soon.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2019 7:19 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 11:14 am
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First name: Jan-Alexis
Last Name: Tremblay
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Country: Canada
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Status: Amateur
Good job, keep it up!


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2019 7:49 am 
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Koa
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This is all going fairly well. I thicknessed the peghead with chisels which turned out to be easier than I thought it might. The volute was a piece of cake and now it's final shaping time. I'm thinking I should have the fretboard temporarily attached for the final shaping.

Notice that giant rasp I found at a yard sale this past weekend. Holy crap does that remove some material. I'm still wondering if I would be better off with a dragon rasp or something else.

Attachment:
NeckShaping.jpg


Attachment:
Volute.jpg


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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2019 10:10 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2019 4:50 pm
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Focus: Build
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I have 3 Iwasaki half round files that I use all the time. A medium, a fine, and a small extra fine. I have a small flat one that I only rarely use. I rarely use flat files. I have other rasps and files that I don't use anymore. I just like the way the Iwasaki's cut; like a plane; and don't just tear and rip. I don't like those surform things at all, except for grating nutmeg or something. I saw a curved half round at Woodcraft the other day, and told my wife; "That one is for Christmas."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 9:54 am 
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Koa
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Ken Nagy wrote:
I have 3 Iwasaki half round files that I use all the time. A medium, a fine, and a small extra fine. I have a small flat one that I only rarely use. I rarely use flat files. I have other rasps and files that I don't use anymore. I just like the way the Iwasaki's cut; like a plane; and don't just tear and rip. I don't like those surform things at all, except for grating nutmeg or something. I saw a curved half round at Woodcraft the other day, and told my wife; "That one is for Christmas."


I have a medium on it's way to try. Thank you.

_________________
Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 8:15 am 
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Koa
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I had a lot of chip out on this board using my SM circular TS blade. It's only been used 7 or 8 times and I've never had this issue. The only thing different is I don't have a zero kerf insert. I guess I just answered my own question. If you have any other ideas for stopping the chip out, let em fly. Fortunately I'll be radiusing this board and that should get rid of some of it. I'll have to fill the rest.

Attachment:
20190821_082344.jpg


Attachment:
20190821_082337.jpg


Attachment:
20190821_082333.jpg


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_________________
Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 10:17 am 
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Location: Southeast US
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Nope, you answered your own question. Zero clearance insert. I have two I made for my table saw, one for the fret sawblade and one for the 7 1/4" Diablo blade. Since I only use it for guitar work those are the only blades I use.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 11:30 am 
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I do it the way Steve does it, only with three different blades and three different inserts: A Diablo 10" with a 1/8" kerf, a Diablo 7 1/4" with a 1/16" kerf, and the StewMac fingerboard slotting blade. It solves a lot of problems to use a zero clearance insert.


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 1:34 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Focus: Build
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I used a hand saw and eyeballs. It worked. I'll have to make up something to check the depth.
But then again I'm cutting a 2mm deep, .5mm wide purflng groove as part of my inlay design on the arch top. The belly is done, and wasn't too.bad. The back is a lot like work.


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 2:46 pm 
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Cocobolo
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First name: Andy
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Congrats.


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 3:08 pm 
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banjopicks wrote:
I had a lot of chip out on this board using my SM circular TS blade. It's only been used 7 or 8 times and I've never had this issue. The only thing different is I don't have a zero kerf insert. I guess I just answered my own question. If you have any other ideas for stopping the chip out, let em fly. Fortunately I'll be radiusing this board and that should get rid of some of it. I'll have to fill the rest.

Attachment:
20190821_082344.jpg


Attachment:
20190821_082337.jpg


Attachment:
20190821_082333.jpg

Is that a Wenge FB?

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 3:21 pm 
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Koa
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Ebony from SM.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 3:23 pm 
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Koa
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We use a SM blade in a shop-made sled and absolutely no tear out or chipping. Zero clearance will not really work with a hollow-ground planer blade unless the insert is quite thin...the reduced thickness part of the rim is quite shallow.

If that is ebony, there is some serious runout on your saw arbor or the blade is already trashed....in either case, you have a serious problem.

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These users thanked the author Woodie G for the post: banjopicks (Thu Aug 22, 2019 6:21 am)
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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 6:15 am 
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Koa
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I got most of the chip out sanded out and I'm saving the dust to fill anything left. I believe I'm going to make a miter box and cut by hand from now on.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 6:26 am 
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Koa
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I have a used Rigid ts and love it for most things. There isn't any play in the arbor but I suppose it could be bent. I don't want to experiment on ebony so I'm going all by hand in the future. Handwork always comes out right.

Woodie G wrote:
We use a SM blade in a shop-made sle. d and absolutely no tear out or chipping. Zero clearance will not really work with a hollow-ground planer blade unless the insert is quite thin...the reduced thickness part of the rim is quite shallow.

If that is ebony, there is some serious runout on your saw arbor or the blade is already trashed....in either case, you have a serious problem.

_________________
Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:08 am 
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Koa
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Now I'm thinking about binding the neck. What thickness looks good on a neck? I'm thinking .040". This will be carried into the peg head as well. I'm also considering no dots or inlay on the fret board.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:14 am 
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Koa
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This things starting to take shape. Not much chip out left.
Attachment:
20190822_075313.jpg


Attachment:
20190822_075425.jpg


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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 7:08 pm 
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For fingerboard binding I stay pretty much with the body binding size.

Your neck looks good so far. The thickness of the neck at the 10th fret looks a little hefty for a rough out, but you have just started. I'm sure it will be fine once you have it shaped up.

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Last edited by Joe Beaver on Fri Aug 23, 2019 7:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 7:10 pm 
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Regarding no fret markers, leaving them off the face of the board is pretty common these days, but I always at least do the side markers. I guess it is up to the player.

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