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 Post subject: Re: Bridge masking
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 5:24 pm 
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That's interesting Brad, I wonder what caused that? I used Frisket tape recently for the first time for French Polish on an red spruce top, the tape was on there for about 6 weeks - I ignored the guitar for a while. When I took it off there was no residue and I was able to glue right to the surface. I really liked the way I could do the finish work with no interference. Previously I've always routed and/or scraped the finish off for the fretboard extension and bridge.

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 Post subject: Re: Bridge masking
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 5:42 pm 
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SteveSmith wrote:
That's interesting Brad, I wonder what caused that? I used Frisket tape recently for the first time for French Polish on an red spruce top, the tape was on there for about 6 weeks - I ignored the guitar for a while. When I took it off there was no residue and I was able to glue right to the surface. I really liked the way I could do the finish work with no interference. Previously I've always routed and/or scraped the finish off for the fretboard extension and bridge.


It was probably the difference between the solvents in the nitro and french polish.


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 Post subject: Re: Bridge masking
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 7:02 pm 
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That makes sense, all I used was alcohol.

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 Post subject: Re: Bridge masking
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2019 1:48 am 
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Brad Goodman wrote:
Just wondering how you deal with masking for bridges.

I have always masked before finishing. I seal the top, put masking tape on, position the bridge and scribe around it with an exacto knife.

The only "problem" I have had with tis method is some very minor grain raising at the the edge of the bridge which can be seen at certain angles.

My theory is that some of the water from the glue (Titebond) swells the grain?

The other methods I have seen used is to finish the top then position the bridge and remove the finish by either scraping, routing or using paint stripper....


I mask the bridge area off... it makes removing the finish later for gluing much easier. You don't have to be exact either, just mask off the area inside the glued area and then peel the tape off once the finish is done. Scrap the rest of the area off.

I don't know about grain raising, is it severe? If not, then don't sweat it. Because honestly if you're using anything except sealing the entire guitar inside and out with catalyzed urethane, you're going to get grain raising eventually. Nitro gets that way after a few years if you applied it in such thickness as to not affect the sound.

Gibson puts them on THICK, in case you're wondering...

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