We use the Paul Woolson neck jig for mortise and sockets and a shopmade tenon and dovetail jig. The Woolson jig was the basis for both the Luthier Tools and LMII jigs, is fairly simple to build, relatively inexpensive in terms of material (ours is built out of Home Depot hardwood ply; Baltic birch would push total cost closer to $140 when the $85 for the dovetail templates is included). The only real limitation of the Woolson jig is that it cuts the tenon or dovetail only, but we prefer using a separate jig for the mortise or socket in any case, so a very acceptable trade-off. Plans for the Woolson jig were at one time available from OLF, but can be borrowed or perhaps purchased second-hand.
A much less expensive approach for a dovetail neck joint would be to cut the socket in the neck block prior to body assembly and cut the tail on the neck when the neck blank is still squared up. This approach is mentioned in Mr. Allan St. John's book, Clapton's Guitar: Watching Wayne Henderson Build the Perfect Instrument.
We use this approach on milling up replacement dovetailed necks - measure the two angles of the existing socket, then set the blade tilt for the slope angle of the socket and use a jig block against the fence or mounted to a sled to establish taper angle.
If the body is already assembled, the socket may be cut by hand with accurate layout - I've done this for a baritone uke, and while a bit slower than a routed socket, it works well and makes for a stunning still process photo for your future web site.
The dovetail neck joint is a full-blind dovetail, so errors in milling and subsequent adjustments (e.g., neck resets) are easily and discretely accomplished...worth practicing on some glued-up scrap to gain a bit of confidence. Some of these trial pieces are so nice that I keep them to around for use as kindling.
