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The w wall of our shop is not well lit it contains 5 , double 220 v outlets. we have 1 110 v outlet in rear s wall , but is such an item (220V) made ???? TNX

Could you use one of the 240v circuits to feed a small sub-panel? This would give you a few 120v circuits to play with?

M

, hd lowes , an amazon have lights that run on 220 v for abt 100$ per set but if I put 6 of them together, it would light up the w wall where all the major big power tools are abt 40 ft long. There already is a 100 amp line in the shop . I could put in another seperate 220 v breaker for all the lighting. and have all the lighting run off that 1 circuit ??

There are ways to split a 220V circuit into two 110V circuits, but to do it safely you may need to have an additional wire (black ,red,white, ground) to provide a neutral wire.

+1

You would need a neutral.

Don't forget your park and reverse!

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Yes indeed reverse!
Another possibility if you just need it for lighting and low powered devices would be to use a step down transformer that would plug into your 220V outlet similar to what people use for their European vacations. You can buy larger transformers that will handle bigger loads but they get expensive.

http://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Converter ... lp_pl_dp_1

I have a larger one to convert 110v to 220v to run a 220V trim router (Virutex) made for the European market and also the Bosch mixer that I turned into a sander. The transformers can be used "backwards" to step up the voltage.

Ordered 2 linkable lights that have a 110 v plug at the s . end of the shop.. What I find confusing is the huge array of available 220 v lights, but dont know if I can trust the reviewers on amazon . since I have never owned 220 v LED lights . My only experience is with the old flourescent lights. And the new led lights that I put in 4 months ago. Thank you all for the tips and suggestions. Am going to eventually get 220 v linkable lights, to light up the W wall were all the major power tools are located

Please consider hiring an electrician to assess what can and cannot be done safely and IAW your locally code and compliance authority!

It may be an option to convert the entire branch circuit to 110v, assuming you do not need the 220v branch circuit for other purposes in that part of the shop. By swapping the branch's 220v breaker for a 110v at the panel-board (which would move one of the two current 'hot' conductors to use as common, leaving just one 'hot' conductor), and the 220v outlets for the properly-configured 110v outlets, and ensuring that all connections and wiring reflect that reuse, a two conductor 220v circuit (e.g., 12-2 NM/NMC-wired) should be able to serve as a dedicated 110v branch circuit of equal or lower ampacity (but check wire size and local code for restrictions and any labeling requirements!).

As mentioned above, some 220v branch circuits may have the extra conductor necessary to allow both 220v and 110v outlets to be wired into the same branch, so the excess 220v outlets on your branch circuit may be able to support a swap to appropriate 110v outlets. If you have safe access to the branch circuit's cable run (e.g., suspended ceiling tile removal or at the panel board if installed in an unfinished closet, etc.), a recently built structure's non-metallic cable (NM/NMC...aka ROMEX) will likely be labeled with the size and number of conductors (e.g., 12-3NM), as well as the sheath color-coded for conductor size for at least the NM cable.

Again, hiring an electrician to see what your options might be sounds like a really good idea and a bargain compared to seeing someone hurt or worse by an avoidable error.

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We have become a civilization that elevates idiots, prostitutes, and clowns. Am I still to defend it? Yes, for its principles. Yes, for what it was. Yes, for what it still may be.

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Just doing a quick search for 220V LED shop lights brought back a lot of lights that can take from 120 to 277V input.

Found this at Home Depot that will run at 120 to 277
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial- ... /207050927

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

HD is a 55 mi round trip from us. So ebay or amazon works better for us. We only go there if we need to, TNX.

Ernest,
With your wiring, it sounds like you are all set with the 240V light fixtures.


I know this is too much information but...
As a side note, you don't need a transformer to connect 120V equipment to a 240V service run. What you do need is another neutral from the source to the last plug. That way you will have two 120V circuits available, a Black/white and a red/white. The existing wiring is most likely 3 wire, a red, black, and white and hopefully a ground (green). (If it's a DIY job it may be just a Black/White, not good) You can get by without the added neutral it is 3 wire but that means the return on each 120V wire (Red & Black) will be on the same neutral. It will work until a bad connection develops on the neutral between the source and the load. When that happens the hot line will feed through the filament or coil of the load, and since it can't return on the neutral, it will return on the other hot line assuming something is connected between the two. That will cause high voltage up to 240V on both of the 120V circuits.

Just thought you should know

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust