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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 8:24 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:52 pm
Posts: 1296
First name: Don
Last Name: Parker
City: Charleston
State: West Virginia
Zip/Postal Code: 25314
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Me three. I like gluing them on square (rectangular) and carving them after gluing on, mostly using the little finger planes.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2019 7:32 am 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 541
I use them as well. Having built 3 F5 mandolins, they are among my favorite tools. So I'm installing them square shaping with finger planes and chisels.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
That's a reminder for me.

"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 4:52 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 1:11 pm
Posts: 1975
Location: Spokane, Washington
First name: Pat
Last Name: Foster
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
I do both, some before, some after gluing. For steel strings, I shape them after gluing. On my classicals, I shape very low bracing in a fixture, where the brace stock sits in a small rebate on the edge of a piece of 3/4" pine or fir, with mall pins at either end to keep the brace from sliding. Then, when I glue the brace on, I don' t have to do as much fiddling on a 2mm tall brace while trying to protect the top. Some of these low braces depend on pre-stressing in a dish (as opposed to depending on the stiffness) to get the desired dome. I use a small squirrel-tail plane with a very sharp blade and a fine set to the iron.

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com


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