Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 8:01 am


All times are UTC - 5 hours





Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 1:09 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 2:40 am
Posts: 993
Location: United States
I am making an ebony binding with a couple different layers of veneer and am wondering what glues work best for this job. I thought I heard somewhere that you shouldn't use titebond because it is waterbase and may fail when bending the binding. Any recommendations?

Thanks!

John


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 1:10 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 8:49 am
Posts: 389
I use Titebond III, the new stuff. It survives the heat from the bending just
fine.

_________________
Sylvan
http://www.wellsguitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 1:23 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 9:42 pm
Posts: 4216
Location: Buffalo, NY
First name: Robert
Last Name: Cefalu
City: Buffalo
State: NY
Zip/Postal Code: 14217
Country: US
I use Titebond II or III . Both work fine.

_________________
Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
http://www.rctonewoods.com/RCT_Store
The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 1:28 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2004 5:34 am
Posts: 1906
Location: United States
I've got a bottle of the III but have not tried it. I believe someone said it wasn't that good that II was better.

_________________
Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 3:57 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 3:45 pm
Posts: 4337
Location: United States
John, for bindings that are already made, which need purfling applied after the fact, I have been using superglue to great effect. It's a bit tedious to apply, but not impossible. I brush accelerator onto the binding, place the purfling and binding together in the Stew-Mac binding laminator, and start applying the water thin glue. The glue will set almost as fast as you can pull it through the jig.

Super glue really holds up to the abuse of heat and pressure. But the fumes coming off the bender can irritate.

Steve

_________________
From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 3:58 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 8:49 am
Posts: 389
Dave -
II is junk for guitars. Use regular Titebond I for most everything. Titebond
III for when heat is an issue (bindings).

_________________
Sylvan
http://www.wellsguitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 5:30 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2004 5:34 am
Posts: 1906
Location: United States
[QUOTE=Sylvan] Dave -
II is junk for guitars. Use regular Titebond I for most everything. Titebond
III for when heat is an issue (bindings).[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the follow up Sylvan...I checked ( my big bottle) it is just plain original tite-bond wood glue. I guess it was the II that I remember someone saying N.G. THANKS!!!!

_________________
Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 7:19 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2005 3:17 am
Posts: 183
By the way, you don't necessarily need to have the side purflings glued to the binding when bending. The purfling lines (made from strips of veneer stock) can be bent seperately by taping tightly between two pieces of scrap to hold them on edge during the bend.

I had to do that when once my colored veneer totally faded to a nauseating color during the bend. I had to split the faded side purfling lines off the ebony binding, bend some new purfling seperately (and at lower temperature), and install it under the binding at the same time the binding was glued in using the Fox "dry" method. No problem at all by the way, the purfling lines bent perfectly, and installed as separate pieces with no fuss at all!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 7:20 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 7:06 am
Posts: 460
Location: United States
[QUOTE=Steve Kinnaird] John, for bindings that are already made, which need purfling applied after the fact, I have been using superglue to great effect. It's a bit tedious to apply, but not impossible. I brush accelerator onto the binding, place the purfling and binding together in the Stew-Mac binding laminator, and start applying the water thin glue. The glue will set almost as fast as you can pull it through the jig.

Super glue really holds up to the abuse of heat and pressure. But the fumes coming off the bender can irritate.

Steve[/QUOTE]

Steve, are you using this jig to laminate side purfling to wood binding? Stewmac's info. indicates it's designed for plastic binding. If this will work on wood, it will be a solution to one of my least favorite tasks.

_________________
Jimmy Caldwell
http://www.caldwellguitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 27 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com