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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2005 2:23 pm 
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Koa
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Location: United States
I've had my new Schramm "Hauser" model classical now for about 4 months and have noticed as the winter weather is getting colder and drier, I can feel the slightest edges of the frets on the side of the fingerboard as the weather is getting drier. My question is, should I allow the guitar to stabilize here as the weather will almost always be fairly dry around here, or should I get one of those "in case" humidity systems and try and keep the humidity higher in the case? Also, will extra humidity in the case correct the fret edges I feel along the fingerboard?

Thanks!

John


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2005 3:04 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I'm sure there are others more experienced in this matter, but I would keep it humidified and in the case when not in use. I've heard that if excessively dried out that some even place the guitar in a garbage bag with a damp sponge to get it hydrated more quickly. Afterwards, they keep it in the case with a humidifier. If it dries out too much, stresses build and cracks develop. I check out my case humidifiers at least once a week during the dry midwest heating season.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2005 3:27 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Argentina
Find out the following if you can. Where did the fingerboard come from and how "aged" is it. Then, at what RH was it constructed into the guitar, and how does that compare to the RH where you have it now.

My guess is the wood is shrinking, not just from RH of it's environment, but from the aging process itself. There is something to be said for aged tonewoods and proper RH when used to construct the instrument.

Knowing a bit about the maker, I find it hard to believe he'd use unseasoned wood. It's fairly common for supply houses to kiln dry wood these days, which is not the same as air dried through many RH cycles.

Our rosewood and ebony was kiln-dried over a ten day period, but in a land where the humidity is 80-90 percent, so I'm sure it took on RH water after the kilning process. Aging is not a bad thing, even if it has been kiln dried.

I wouldn't worry though, sounds like the guitar may require a little rework on the fret ends. Not a huge problem, any competent luthier, such as yourself can handle that.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2005 4:38 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Location: Canada
I have an Esteve hand built Gr12 classical guitar. I live in Alberta. I did not humidify this guitar and it developed major cracks in the hardwood back. It made the resale of this guitar impossible. I suggest you keep a closet or somewhere you can control the humidity and put the guitar in there. Even a ice cream pail of water in a closet will be sufficient. Put in a hygrometer and see what the humidity level is. I make sure now that my shop and storage area of my guitars is at 45-50% humidity!!!
I don't want another mistake like I had. Live and learn for me but you can learn from other people's mistakes.
So humidify it immediately. The humidity in Alberta goes to >20% in the winter!! Not good for a guitr or any wooden musical instrument. You could also buy soundhole humidfiers to keep the inside of the guitar humidfied.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2005 5:41 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Bruce...would you really rework the fret ends before trying to re-hydrate the guitar? With all due respect, I wouldn't touch the frets. Assuming that the fret ends were smooth in the summer, I wouldn't touch them until I was certain that the FB was re-humidified. This is a classic symptom of a dried out guitar and it should return to its original condition once it spends some time in more comfortable conditions.

Last winter, I had a guitar's action change dramatically...it actually lost its dome on the top. This was coincidental with the humidity dropping to below 20% for weeks. I left the guitar in a bedroom with a room humidifier and within a few days the action was back to normal. Since then, I monitor the conditions and keep the case humidified. It was a lesson I learned early enough and was grateful that no permanent damage occurred.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 1:21 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Ron and JJ, I totally agree with you both, the guitar if dried out may need hydrating. You see, I have these two pals, Elshaw and Ecklund, on in Nebraska one in Florida.

I actually had them reversed thinking Elshaw was in Florida and I know the conditions there. Nebraska this time of year, oh my goodness, a new guitar in the frozen winter of Nebraska the humidity is zilch, and you guys are probably on the money on this one.

ASSUME, I did it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 4:06 am 
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Koa
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Too dry - BAD
Too hummid - Bad
45-50% R.H. - Good
wood is a very particular animal...very picky...very easily ruined. I spend way too much time keeping the wood happy...especially here in Florida...

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"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 4:42 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

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John, let us know how this comes out...


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 7:27 am 
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Koa
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John I would definitely worry a little more about a classical than a steel string. Most steel strings are over built ( so maybe they are a little more tolerant). But Classical and Flamencos are often built just short of failure. I would think they would, therefore, react to hummidity changes a little more quickly(and maybe too much...Yikes a crack!). I buy these cheap Digital Hygrometers, made by HUMICASE, from M.F. for $15 each and put them in all the cases. They really aren't too bad. In my shop I have four of those Digital Hygrometers StewMac sells. Outside, I keep one those dial type jobs, but that is relatively useless since I know it's always over 90% in FLORIDA.

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"


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