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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 3:56 am 
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Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:12 am
Posts: 147
First name: robin
Last Name: courtenay
City: andover
State: hants
Country: uk
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hello sorry for the delay in posting this, here we go.
Now that we have the dial zeroed out we put the body on the jig and check for side to side alignment
Attachment:
DSC_0388-1.jpg

You can see that the dial is not on the centre line so we adjust by screwing /unscrewing the thumbscrews under the table until it lines up.
Attachment:
DSC_0389-1.jpg

Attachment:
DSC_0392-1.jpg

This ensures that the truss rod pins on the neck plate line up with the guitar centre line.Now we set the neck angle first we set the dial back to the numbers we set when we zeroed out,this is done by loosening the wing nuts on the side of the jig and tilting the table by means of the large thumb screw on the bottom and at the back of the jig
Attachment:
DSC_0394-1.jpg

Attachment:
DSC_0395-1.jpg

Once this is done we can add our chosen measurement to get the desired distance above the body at the saddle location by turning the large thumbscrew some more ,in this case i set it at 0.188 inch/4.7mm(far too much i know,i meant to set it at 0.118/3mm but for this demo it doesn't matter)
Attachment:
DSC_0397-1.jpg

Now tighten the wing nuts on the side of the table and remove the body and dial indicator.Now we clamp the neck to the jig and measure down from the table top 1/2 inch so as to get 1/2 inch tenon(the router bit is set to cut 1inch depth so as to give 1/2 inch tenon ,and will give a 5/8 mortice bearing in mind that the edge vice is 3/8 thick)
Attachment:
DSC_0399-1.jpg

Attachment:
DSC_0400-1.jpg

Have to leave it there for now due to 8 attachment limit.


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