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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:14 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:11 pm
Posts: 352
Location: muncie IN
First name: shad
Last Name: peters
Focus: Build
I have been wanting an overarm/pin router for quite a while now but there is no way I could afford the 2500 dollar variety grizzly carries. I was able to build this one almost entirely from scrap I had around the shop. The only thing I had to buy were the sprocket and chain for a grand total of 40 dollars invested in this outfit. I thought that others who have been contemplating such a build might find this useful.
This one is not particularly pretty, but it is totally solid and functional which is all I am really worried about.


here is the backbone of the whole thing, just some threaded rod with two nuts fixed to angle iron
Image
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

this is the fixture for the threaded rod, and this whole outfit is what controls my depth. still need to get a lever for the top though.
Image
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

Image
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

this collar is what keeps everything in its respective place. otherwise the threaded rod would simply ride up.
Image
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

their is one of these on each side. there is a half inch rod the rides in a half in channel and this serves to stabilize the router horizontally.
Image
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

here is my little fixture to hold the router in place. just some sugar maple with a coupld of lag bolts clamping down.
Image
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

grandpa stopped by and promptly began helping me "do it right"
[im[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/petersinstruments/6814621430/]Image
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickrg]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/6814619038_60bb24cdb8.jpg[/img][/url]
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

here is the router mounted.
Image
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

I used to salvaged drawer slides to operate the plunging function. they are pulled up or down by a chain and sprocket.
Image
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickr


here is the formentioned sprocket
Image
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

and a side shot for good measure.
Image
my overarm/pin router by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

I am stilll working out a few little kinks, but I used it as is today and it performed quite well. I'll be happy to answer questions, or take suggestions. thanks!

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~shad peters

http://www.flickr.com/photos/petersinstruments/
http://petersinstruments.blogspot.com/
http://petersinstruments.com/


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:22 am 
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Well Shad your right, that isn't pretty. If it works as well as your dupli-carver then your in business. What router is that? Looks old.

I've been considering the Shop Fox bench top unit for $650. Pneumatic control with a foot pedal, 5 1/2" stroke and an 18" throat depth.http://www.grizzly.com/products/Bench-Top-Overarm-Router/G0587


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:50 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:11 pm
Posts: 352
Location: muncie IN
First name: shad
Last Name: peters
Focus: Build
StevenWheeler wrote:
Well Shad your right, that isn't pretty. If it works as well as your dupli-carver then your in business. What router is that? Looks old.

I've been considering the Shop Fox bench top unit for $650. Pneumatic control with a foot pedal, 5 1/2" stroke and an 18" throat depth.http://www.grizzly.com/products/Bench-Top-Overarm-Router/G0587


Yeah I have see that one before but its still pretty well out of my reach price wise. I have just never had the patience for making pretty tools. I grew up on a farm and we built things to get the job done, somehow that hasn't translated over to guitars, I dont mind spending hours on the little details with something like that. I wanted to share this not to show off my craftsmanship in anyway (cause we can all agree it is lacking a little here) but just so that others can see the basic premise for doing one of these. it can be relatively cheap and easy if you put a little time into it, and its definately a tool worth having. I have already done some binding channels with it and it works like a dream.

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~shad peters

http://www.flickr.com/photos/petersinstruments/
http://petersinstruments.blogspot.com/
http://petersinstruments.com/


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:51 am 
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First name: Rob
Last Name: McDougall
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State: Alberta
Cool!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 3:08 pm
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Location: United States
First name: John
Last Name: Thiessen
City: Lexington Park
State: MD
That's pretty cool.
I have the shop fox and love it, worth every penny imo. I have pretty much quite using a router table.

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http://www.iszacguitars.com


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 6:53 pm
Posts: 80
Location: North Texas
First name: Orion
Last Name: Adcock
City: North
State: TX
Zip/Postal Code: 76210
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
That's really sharp. I have been trying to decide on a design for myself but got really lucky and was given this one just the other week. Needs minimal work and will be good after I finish it's minimal restoration.
Attachment:
003 (256x192).jpg


I agree with your tool and jig philosophy though. Why worry about making a tool pretty.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:40 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 6:53 pm
Posts: 80
Location: North Texas
First name: Orion
Last Name: Adcock
City: North
State: TX
Zip/Postal Code: 76210
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
You might consider some notches in the portion holding the router. It would probably be ok if used for short periods but those motors get really hot and wood completely around the motor casing will help insulate the heat from escaping. Even Units with aluminium brackets to hold router motors often have spaces to allow air flow.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:29 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:11 pm
Posts: 352
Location: muncie IN
First name: shad
Last Name: peters
Focus: Build
Orion Thomas wrote:
You might consider some notches in the portion holding the router. It would probably be ok if used for short periods but those motors get really hot and wood completely around the motor casing will help insulate the heat from escaping. Even Units with aluminium brackets to hold router motors often have spaces to allow air flow.


Thanks for the suggestion, I had not even thought about that, but I bet it would be a really beneficial to put some vents around that thing to keep it from over heating.

thats a pretty sweet score to get an overarm router like that, even if it requires some work it will be totally worth it. If I could have found something along those lines I would not have bothered with all of this. I would much rather have just forked out the cash for the shop fox but that really just isnt an option for me financially at the moment.

I am hoping to put a more modern router with a half inch collet on here though. The old porter cable on there now is probably from the 60's or 70's. It works alright, but I am limited to bits with a quarter inch shaft which wont allow me to do a lot of the things that I want to use it for

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~shad peters

http://www.flickr.com/photos/petersinstruments/
http://petersinstruments.blogspot.com/
http://petersinstruments.com/


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