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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 9:27 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:16 am
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Location: United States
Haven't seen much as of late.

I've got a couple A models going.

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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 3:32 pm 
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First name: Big
Last Name: Jim
State: Deep in the heart of Bluegrass
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
nice work , I am a lil more interested in the router set up , how do u do that ?

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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 5:51 pm 
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Koa
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James,

The problem with this jig is that is you vs. the router. It is unsafe in that if you do not have a good grip on the top or back and the router bit digs in too far, zing, it will go for a ride. This is also why I made the jig just big enough to fit the top and back. If the back does take off, it doesn't have far to go until it stops on part of the jig and your fingers would have a lot of trouble getting in there with the bit. You will need a plunge router and a long bit for this. The bit I am using in the photos is too short. That is why I have the little booster board under the back in the first photo.

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PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 9:41 am 
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Koa
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Seems like it would work just as well or easier holding the router and guiding it by hand. I do the outer cut like that but I never thought of removing more by stepping like your doing. Next time I'll try it. Now that I think of it, that only works with flat boards where your setup would work with flat or wedges.

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"Alan Carruth, IMO the 12-fret 000 or 14 fret OM size (15" wide lower bout) is god's size for the steel string guitar, especially for fingerstyle. I would also try to get away from scalloped bracing and lean toward 'straight' or 'tapered' bracing. Scalloped emphasizes bass and 'punch', where straight bracing, and especially 'tapered' (sometimes called 'parabolic') leans more toward treble and sustain."


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