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 Post subject: Mandolin Geometry
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:57 pm 
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First name: George
City: Seattle
State: WA
Country: USA
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Friends,
As noted in various other posts, I'm currently building my first mandolin. I've looked around and haven't found target numbers for the geometry between the neck, bridge/saddle, and strings. I'm at the point where I need to adjust the alignment and set of the neck and I could use some direction.

[Edited to add: This is a simple Army/Navy or campfire style mandolin, so while there is a very slight arch to the top it is basically flat.]

Here's where I'm at right now:

Neck angle = 2 degrees
Fingerboard thickness = .250
Saddle height = .63

When I lay a straightedge along the top of the unfretted fingerboard it hits just at the top of the saddle. If this were a guitar I'd have a good idea as to how I should proceed, but the mandolin is basically a foreign object to me. Am I in the ballpark? Way off the mark? Are there general numbers I should be aiming to hit? Your guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

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 Post subject: Re: Mandolin Geometry
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 1:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:52 am
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First name: Big
Last Name: Jim
State: Deep in the heart of Bluegrass
Country: usa
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Is that an adjustable Bridge/saddle ? If yes , then you are in great shape . When you work off the nut height above the frets at a proper distance and then adjust the bridge accordingly.


Maybe Chris O will pop in and sound off on this thread .

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 Post subject: Re: Mandolin Geometry
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 09, 2008 2:25 pm
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First name: George
City: Seattle
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Country: USA
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Status: Amateur
Right now I have a non-adjustable bridge/saddle. I could change that, of course.

Thanks,

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 Post subject: Re: Mandolin Geometry
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:52 am
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First name: Big
Last Name: Jim
State: Deep in the heart of Bluegrass
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I would say from my limited experience that with a set non adjustable bridge / saddle it would be done the same as a guitar in basic set up. I always use adjustable so I really cant answer with 100% sureness

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The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/groups/GatewayA ... rAssembly/


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 Post subject: Re: Mandolin Geometry
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 1:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:16 am
Posts: 567
Location: United States
George,

Steve Smith over at Cumberland Acoustic sets is necks on his 'Traveler' model (Army/Navey style) at 1 1/2 degrees and shoots for a 5/8" tall bridge. He uses his Cumberland Acoustic adjustable bridges that have been modified to have the feet shaved off for a shorter bridge with more contact area. He's sells them at a discount from the full blown CA patent bridges.

He said he used to use a steeper angle but the bridges would get too high, causing an excessive break angle and putting too much pressure on the top. He also had to use a fretboard wedge at higher angles.

Hope this helps out.. and do check out Steve's bridges.

Good luck, I've been doing some neck setting myself lately.

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 Post subject: Re: Mandolin Geometry
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 10:48 am 
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Joined: Fri May 09, 2008 2:25 pm
Posts: 1954
First name: George
City: Seattle
State: WA
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Chris,
Thanks for the info. That's just what I needed to know. I'll go check out the Cumberland Acoustic site now.

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