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 Post subject: Towel marks from waxing
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 4:26 pm 
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Mahogany
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I'm a beginner in terms of refinishing guitars, electric specifically.
My issue is after wet sanding the laquer clear coat down to 2000, I then applied wax.
I applied it by hand on both sides but somehow the towel that the guitar was resting on as I waxed has made an impression fairly deep into the finish.

Was heat the cause?
Should the guitar not be flat on a clean towel when buffing/polishing?

The good news is on a test guitar I got my technique down when I changed to compounds and omitted wax but I'm worried about making the same mistake again.

So I saw what happened but not sure why.

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 5:51 pm 
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What kind of wax, Paul?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 6:23 pm 
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Alex Kleon wrote:
What kind of wax, Paul?

Alex


Mothers carnauba wax


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 7:03 pm 
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Sounds like the finish was not hard yet.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 7:08 pm 
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Mahogany
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dzsmith wrote:
Sounds like the finish was not hard yet.


I wondered about that. I let it hang for 6 weeks but I did put a lot of coats on.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 8:42 pm 
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Could there have been some solvent on the towel? That could soften the wax, even if there's a hint of it.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 10:35 pm 
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Alex Kleon wrote:
Could there have been some solvent on the towel? That could soften the wax, even if there's a hint of it.

Alex


I don't think so but now that I think about it, it was an old towel. I'll test a small area with a different towel. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 7:45 am 
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What brand and type of finish?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 8:48 am 
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B. Howard wrote:
What brand and type of finish?


Duplicolor clear coat.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 8:11 am 
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Not to familiar with the duplicolor stuff but I have seen issues with other rattle can brands (most notoriously Deft) Taking months to harden and then never really achieving the hardness I would expect of a nitro lacquer.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 8:31 am 
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B. Howard wrote:
Not to familiar with the duplicolor stuff but I have seen issues with other rattle can brands (most notoriously Deft) Taking months to harden and then never really achieving the hardness I would expect of a nitro lacquer.


Yeah this is possible too. I'm going to wet sand and buff with compound and see where it gets me. Thanks.

Edit: I think it's not hard. I haven't come across a hardness test but I noticed someone in another forum said to check if you fingernail can make a dent. Well mine did, I went easy so it's not deep but looks like I'm going to have to keep waiting.

Is there a repair procedure for clear coats? Could I take it to a professional shop and have them add a few coats? The paint job is rather intricate, I would rather not start that over. :shock:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:11 am 
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FL6 wrote:

Is there a repair procedure for clear coats? Could I take it to a professional shop and have them add a few coats? The paint job is rather intricate, I would rather not start that over. :shock:


IME the only solution is to remove the soft lacquer and re-finish. If you put a harder coating over a softer one it will crack and peel....

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:43 am 
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Mahogany
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B. Howard wrote:
FL6 wrote:

Is there a repair procedure for clear coats? Could I take it to a professional shop and have them add a few coats? The paint job is rather intricate, I would rather not start that over. :shock:


IME the only solution is to remove the soft lacquer and re-finish. If you put a harder coating over a softer one it will crack and peel....


So just sand down to the paint?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 11:10 am 
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It's going to be extremely hard to not sand through - I usually chemically remove nitro. what did you paint it with?

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