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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 2:53 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:46 pm
Posts: 1329
First name: Freeman
Last Name: Keller
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Chowlie wrote:
Do you really think gluing the frets is necessary? And in this case, fretting after the f/b went on was a must so I could plane it flat first.



Different people do different things. Some use HHG or AR or nothing, I have used thin CA on every board I've fretted. On new unbound boards I'll hammer/press the frets in, then wick some thin CA into the end gap to both fill it and to hold the fret in place. I have never had a failure and I can pull frets that have CA on them as easily as nothing with a little heat. I also make the assumption that anyone working on a guitar that I worked on knows to use heat, but I know that might not be true. There are a few exceptions - Fender maple necks, Fenders with the side pushed frets, Gibsons with the nibs.

As far as fretting off the neck, I make the assumption that my neck is dead flat before I glue the board on. When I fret the board it usually takes a very slight back bow (that would have helped counter the bow you experienced) but when I clamp it down it goes flat. I level after I've glued it on but frankly there is almost no leveling required. Obviously on a refret where the neck and f/b are on the guitar I have to work with what I've got but if I have a choice its off the guitar.

I also prefer to press the frets in, but again, I can't do that when the f/b is on because I can't support it. I use the quill of my drill press (which isn't designed for this but I haven't bought an arbor press, yet)

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As I say, lots of ways


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 8:39 am 
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Walnut
Walnut
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Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 4:31 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Central KY
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Amateur
This week's latest updates:

End nippers ground down flat

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New toothy-looking saddles from Bob

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$16 bulk fretwire bender I got from eBay - very nice contraption! I'm very glad I went with the uncut wire just for using this.

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I might still put a bit more radius on it just to get the ends down as tight as possible.

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And more supplies from LMI. Royal-Lac, bridge red dye, binding for the repair near the soundhole, a block of ebony to make dust for repairing the fretboard chips, pipettes, and a 3-corner dressing file.
I think I've just about settled on stripping the neck and refinishing just that area.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 10:12 pm 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2008 12:17 pm
Posts: 824
City: Escondido
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 92029
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
FWIW I like to slightly over bend my wire, not under bend it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 10:08 am 
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Walnut
Walnut
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Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 4:31 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Central KY
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Amateur
Lots of progress has been made! Eager to share the details.

Binding cut away where it was short

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Hardly noticeable.

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The frets went it without too much trouble, but it did take the first five or so to get the swing of things. I eventually went back and replaced a couple of the first ones I did. I got a bit overboard with the super glue, but it cleaned up pretty easily with some acetone on a rag. I'm satisfied with how the frets turned out, especially being my first time. I held a 1-2-3 block under the F/B extension to knock those frets in. After they all went in I used my beam with some sandpaper on it to level them out, then crowned them with my $7 eBay file, which I have to say did the job surprising well. I have some polishing to do, but I feel like that would still be the case with a more expensive file.

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Found out that a steel rule with some stick-back sandpaper on it is pretty handy - leveling binding, chamfering fret ends, etc.

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The new oversized saddles, which gave me action around .130". Tall!

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One of the chips I filled with ebony dust and super glue. It has almost completely disappeared with a bit of lemon oil on it.

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Now it's time for getting the action down to my spec. This is how I always shave saddles because I work in a machine shop. I put them in a grinding vise, indicate them flat, then take off exactly the amount I need.

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The radius didn't match exactly, so I scribed a line and altered it.

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After all that I have action right about .080" low E and .060" high E. Perfect for me! And not a single buzz to be found anywhere. Couldn't be happier with it.

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The new saddles are definitely tall, but not so much that it's extremely obvious.

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Now it's on to finishing up the less important things like neck finish and fret polishing.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 10:38 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:46 pm
Posts: 1329
First name: Freeman
Last Name: Keller
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Good job. Its been a long road but congratulations on sticking with it.



These users thanked the author Freeman for the post: Chowlie (Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:17 am)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 12:43 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut
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Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 4:31 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Central KY
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Amateur
Freeman wrote:
Good job. Its been a long road but congratulations on sticking with it.


Thanks, Freeman. Your help has been invaluable throughout this whole process! I seriously appreciate all the time and effort you've given to helping me out.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 12:19 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut
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Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 4:31 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Central KY
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Amateur
This week's update:

Got some wood filler in the soundhole and on the side of the neck.

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Polished up the frets and cleaned the ends.

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Moved on to some finishing

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I basically mixed my Trans Tint and Royal Lac about 50/50 to keep it as dark as possible.

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About three coats in

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It's tricky... and definitely not exact. I'm not expecting to get it perfect by any means, just "red" and smooth. As soon as I get the binding cleaned off I'll do some coats of clear over both the wood and binding.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2018 8:44 am 
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Walnut
Walnut
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Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 4:31 pm
Posts: 35
Location: Central KY
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Amateur
I'm finally to the point now where I'm calling it "finished." :D There are a couple small things I'll probably tinker on from time to time, but overall I think it's safe to say it's done.

I didn't end up putting more clear over the neck and binding, as it caused the red tint to streak. I just finely sanded the binding until all the red was removed, and left the rest as it is. About the best I could do was sand it with 2500 grit paper, and then try rubbing some Turtle Wax into it, which also caused the red dye to streak. I suppose I really need to get a buffing wheel of some kind in order to actually shine it up. Thoughts?

Here's the final product:

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Once again, I'd like to give a huge thanks to everyone who advised me through this whole process. It's been quite an experience!


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