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Eventually I want to do this with CNC only but for now one of my least favorite tasks is sawing ebony and rosewood with the lmi slotting jig. It takes for ever. I've thought about building a table saw jig but the blade kit is like 100 bucks, which is a bit steel for a table saw blade and some metal on either side of it to stabilize the blade. The old "luthier upcharge" I suppose. I'd be interested to see how some of you built your jigs as well as if anyone knows of a more budget friendly thin kerf blade and stabilizers the the set lmi sells.

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I have the Stew-Mac Blade and three of their steel slotting jigs, like you until I go CNC I'm very happy with what I have.

I mark the fretboard and clamp a block on the mark.
I find it is much quicker than a miter box type setup, and the saw rarely binds.

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I have a CNC machine, its just too small to do fretboards without some locating pins to do it in two passes. The reason I want to go full CNC for fretboards is because I eventually only want to built fan frets. I haven't worked on figuring out a way to do the fretboard in two passes but I may just mod it and extend the work space instead.

I'd be fine right now with the stew mac/lmi jig but it might be cheaper to just mod the CNC. I would like a cheaper option though for my current builds.

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Same here. Works for fan frets, too. Make marks along the high and low string paths using the two scales. And optionally a third set of marks down the centerline for error checking, using a scale length half way between.

Also you may need to sharpen your saw. My StewMac fret slotting saw came dull, and was torture on the first first few guitars before I decided to try my hand at saw sharpening using a knife style needle file. It's actually quite easy... at least if you're nearsighted like me

I think the saw needs some set to prevent binding. Problem is the thick .02" saw blade makes that impossible.

Why don't they make a .01" saw blade and set the teeth to cut a .02" kerf?

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A .01" saw blade will have a bend in it in no time, especially if it is a western type that cuts on the push. Too much set in a blade has it's own world of troubles. It's all about sharpness, or a lack of it.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Of course it would have to be a pull sawblade, like those Japanese backsaw (which has a .01" thick steel)

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

I made a crude little tablesaw using an old direct drive motor and a 3 3/8 th in. Makita circle saw blade. I have also used the battery saw it goes to, to cut fret slots. The saw blade is relatively cheap.
Lately I've been thinking about using an oscillating tool with saw blade attachment to cut slots, either free hand or table mounted. The blades are thin and finely toothed. It might also be an economical solution.

If your cutting by hand I found the Stanley flush cut saw ($15 on Amazon) is a prefect saw for cutting fret slots. And you can also make a simple handle to hold the blade. I did mine this way for the first 6 guitars.

I've not made a fanned fret so don't know how you'd do it on a table saw but I bet Tony Karol has figured it out.
Mad for cutting straight slots, setting up on the table saw is quick and slotting a board takes only a few minutes.


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Joey, I still have a few saw blades around so I can sell you one. They are $43.50 USD each, 6"in diameter and just over 100 teeth. You will need a blade stabilizer for each, 5" ones and I just saw these on line for $20 per pair (much cheaper than the Forrest ones I have) http://www.infinitytools.com/Saw-Blade-Stabilizers/products/1202/

The reason the blades are not cheap is that they are special made from a company that makes jewelry saw blades which typically have a 1" arbor (mine have 5/8" arbor). Also, the tolerance in the manufacture of these blades, to keep accurate kerf, is double that of the jewelry blades. So you are looking at $70 investment or so on the blade and stiffners and you will still need a template for each scale length or accurate marking to line up free hand if you are only doing a few boards per year.

Thanks
Shane

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Canada

I use the table saw blade and scale template from LMI. I think it is cheap at twice the price. Wouldn't be without it.

Can't offer anything better than the LMI table saw blade and a sled for holding the fingerboard. I honestly think it was one of my best investments.

I'd get one of the table saw blades, but they won't work with my saw.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Table saw with a good sled. I made a jig so I can cut them using another board as a template....I've been meaning to snap a pic

We have the LMII and Stew Mac blades -- the SM is far superior and works fine with just one standard stabalizer.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/