Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 11:04 am


All times are UTC - 5 hours


Forum rules


Be nice, no cussin and enjoy!




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 137 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2022 4:08 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:02 am
Posts: 3227
Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
Jeff, Good point. The back cracks on my project were very tight and required no clamping for closure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2022 5:49 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2013 7:33 am
Posts: 1831
First name: Willard
Last Name: Guthrie
City: Cumberland
State: Maryland 21502
Zip/Postal Code: 21502
Country: United State
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
Re: fractions and decimal inches... fractions make a great deal of sense in a world without plastic rulers at 2 for $1.50 at Big Lots or with large families ("...we need a bigger pie, not more slices!"), but other than carpentry, where visual division by 2 is still accurate enough for most rough framing, something decimal seems more practical for the finer measurements in luthiery. I do setups in thousandths of an inch, although apparently 32nd and 64th inch are also common for steel string work.

While the usual 5R grad rules (6" and 18" in decimal inches) are on my little garage shop bench, we always had one of the Stanley 12' engineer's tape measure (33-272) on each bench at Greenridge (grads in 10th and 50th on one edge for the first six inches; 10th after that, and traditional 16th/32nd inch on the other edge). That made for very quick scale length measurement, etc., and I suspect the decimal inch standardization in the shop was more aerospace standard practice than anything else. There was the practical matter that Imperial/SAE grads were a little finer than the 1/2mm grads on metric rules, but that seems like less of an issue with $25 decimal inch/fractional inch/mm calipers used for many measurements.

_________________
We have become a civilization that elevates idiots, prostitutes, and clowns. Am I still to defend it? Yes, for its principles. Yes, for what it was. Yes, for what it still may be.

-Mark Helprin, The Oceans and the Stars: A Sea Story, A War Story, A Love Story (A Novel)



These users thanked the author Woodie G for the post: Hesh (Thu May 12, 2022 2:05 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2022 8:46 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:45 pm
Posts: 1445
First name: Michael
Last Name: Colbert
City: Anacortes
State: WA
Focus: Build
This is how I make using hide glue on an x-brace a little less frantic. The use of little index blocks makes placement a breeze - you’re not dealing with the part skating around while installing go-bars. Simply install a go-bar at the intersection, one at each end and fill in the gap. I’m using a hairdryer to pre-warm things before applying the glue. I also use a 2oz needle bottle to very quickly and easily apply glue to the part.

Works for me, M


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.



These users thanked the author Michaeldc for the post (total 4): Kbore (Mon Jul 24, 2023 4:07 pm) • Hesh (Wed Jun 08, 2022 12:48 pm) • Robbie_McD (Tue May 17, 2022 8:30 pm) • Pmaj7 (Fri May 13, 2022 2:22 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2022 11:06 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:44 am
Posts: 5398
First name: colin
Last Name: north
Country: Scotland.
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Never thought to post it, but I do the same with the blocks. Actually I use scraps of oilboard or what we call hardboard.

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2022 11:37 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:52 pm
Posts: 2953
First name: Don
Last Name: Parker
City: Charleston
State: West Virginia
Zip/Postal Code: 25314
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I'm currently experimenting with similar blocks to hem in where the braces go, but instead of wood, I'm using nonstick material.



These users thanked the author doncaparker for the post: Pmaj7 (Fri May 13, 2022 2:22 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2022 12:39 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:15 pm
Posts: 7219
First name: Ed
Last Name: Bond
City: Vancouver
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
I do sorta the same thing, from a tip someone posted here on the forum. I dry fit the braces, then hem them in with go bars. Then you just butt the brace assembly against the go bars and boom. With the added advantage that you’ve already got the go bars situated. Just need to lift them and put them on top of the braces…



These users thanked the author meddlingfool for the post (total 2): Kbore (Mon Jul 24, 2023 4:07 pm) • Pmaj7 (Fri May 13, 2022 2:23 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2022 4:42 am 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2022 7:55 am
Posts: 83
Location: Sweden
First name: Roger
Last Name: Häggström
City: Örnsköldsvik
Zip/Postal Code: 89136
Country: Sweden
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Sometimes the slot for a fret is too narrow, and if it is an ebony fretboard with bindings, it can be a bit hard to make the slot wider. You may not have the right tool. An easy way out is to file down the width of the fret tang to make the fret fit to the slot. Stewmac sells a tool named "Fret barber" for this. I have it, but I didn't like it. So I made a small invention.

Two round diamond cutters are mounted with a spacer in between, as thick as I want the fret tang to be. The diamond sprinkled edge of the diamond cutter discs are ground down to smooth metal, I used a hard rock for that. With this tool, I can thin down the tang real quick by dragging the tang between the two discs, grinding the tang from both sides.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
New will change the old,
turn to ashes or gold

http://www.gammelgura.se



These users thanked the author RogerHaggstrom for the post (total 8): Kbore (Mon Jul 24, 2023 4:08 pm) • Chris Pile (Sun Oct 02, 2022 10:20 am) • Durero (Wed May 18, 2022 4:21 pm) • Robbie_McD (Tue May 17, 2022 8:31 pm) • dzsmith (Sun May 15, 2022 2:25 pm) • Barry Daniels (Sun May 15, 2022 8:35 am) • joshnothing (Sun May 15, 2022 7:07 am) • Colin North (Sun May 15, 2022 5:18 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2022 9:32 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2017 8:42 pm
Posts: 388
First name: Pierre
Last Name: Castonguay
City: Québec, Qc
Country: Canada
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
dzsmith wrote:
Setting the neck angle on electrics using a digital protractor.
I place the bridge and fretboard at the desired location on top of the body.
I lay a straight edge across the end of the fretboard and a bridge saddle.
Place the protractor on the body and zero out the reading.
Place the protractor on the straight edge and record the angle.
I can add a toothpick to simulate fret height, but usually do not.

To cut the neck pocket, zero the protractor on the body, then place it on the template and adjust the template angle to match the previously recorded angle.

My guitars have the fretboard end flush to the body.
This has been a very accurate way to get the perfect angle.
The protractor cost $15

Thanks for this. I'd really like to see pics to illustrate this post. I'm sure it would make it even more useful.


Pierre
Guitares Torvisse



These users thanked the author Smylight for the post: Hesh (Mon May 16, 2022 5:46 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2022 8:01 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 2:26 pm
Posts: 455
First name: Carl
Last Name: Dickinson
City: Forest Ranch
State: California
Zip/Postal Code: 95942
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
For those of you using a Sonicare toothbrush, I'm hoping you save the brushes when you switch to a new one. The magnets are some strong little suckers! I pry them off the brush with pliers to use them for crack glue up, hanging plans on the back of a steel door and leave them on the brush taped to a stick to pick up the dropped screws on the floor (that happens more often than I like at my age). gaah

Check them out. Also, the brush is good for cleaning out corners around neck joint and bridges, especially with the extra vibrating handle that sometimes comes in the set. Oh, and no affiliation with the company........



These users thanked the author CarlD for the post: Hesh (Wed May 18, 2022 5:02 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2022 8:44 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 8:35 pm
Posts: 2658
Location: Austin, Texas
First name: Dan
Last Name: Smith
City: Round Rock
State: TX
Zip/Postal Code: 78681
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Smylight wrote:
dzsmith wrote:
Setting the neck angle on electrics using a digital protractor.
I place the bridge and fretboard at the desired location on top of the body.
I lay a straight edge across the end of the fretboard and a bridge saddle.
Place the protractor on the body and zero out the reading.
Place the protractor on the straight edge and record the angle.
I can add a toothpick to simulate fret height, but usually do not.

To cut the neck pocket, zero the protractor on the body, then place it on the template and adjust the template angle to match the previously recorded angle.

My guitars have the fretboard end flush to the body.
This has been a very accurate way to get the perfect angle.
The protractor cost $15

Thanks for this. I'd really like to see pics to illustrate this post. I'm sure it would make it even more useful.


Pierre
Guitares Torvisse


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah



These users thanked the author dzsmith for the post: Smylight (Wed May 18, 2022 12:31 pm)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2022 3:02 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2017 8:42 pm
Posts: 388
First name: Pierre
Last Name: Castonguay
City: Québec, Qc
Country: Canada
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
dzsmith wrote:
Smylight wrote:
dzsmith wrote:
Setting the neck angle on electrics using a digital protractor.
I place the bridge and fretboard at the desired location on top of the body.
I lay a straight edge across the end of the fretboard and a bridge saddle.
Place the protractor on the body and zero out the reading.
Place the protractor on the straight edge and record the angle.
I can add a toothpick to simulate fret height, but usually do not.

To cut the neck pocket, zero the protractor on the body, then place it on the template and adjust the template angle to match the previously recorded angle.

My guitars have the fretboard end flush to the body.
This has been a very accurate way to get the perfect angle.
The protractor cost $15

Thanks for this. I'd really like to see pics to illustrate this post. I'm sure it would make it even more useful.


Pierre
Guitares Torvisse

Aaaah… now I see. I should have guessed what a digital protractor is. Or looked it up. Thanks!


Pierre
Guitares Torvisse


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2022 3:42 pm 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2022 7:55 am
Posts: 83
Location: Sweden
First name: Roger
Last Name: Häggström
City: Örnsköldsvik
Zip/Postal Code: 89136
Country: Sweden
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Saving time, I never tape down the fretboard, instead I put the tape on the fingerboard guard. Works perfectly if you ask me.

To protect the top from fret saws and slipping fret files, I use one or two simple pieces of sheet metal. Usually I just keep one in place with my left hand while doing the work, but they can also be clamped through the soundhole.

To save my thumb when doing a lot of crowning of the frets, I modified the handle of a "Micro Detail Sander". With that, I don't strain my thumb as much.

A last tip is to use a straight single cut metal file to bevel the fret ends. Using the "Fret beveling file" ALWAYS ends up with a "carved ski" effect on the fret ends along the sides of the neck. That is probably the least useful Stewmac tool I have ever bought... Even with a perfectly straight file, I have to file a bit more on the ends of the fretboard to get a straight line. One sheet metal is perfect to protect the top from the file.

The BIGGEST time saver though is the Stewmac Erlewine jig, with that the amount of frets to file down and then reshape is minimal [:Y:]


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
New will change the old,
turn to ashes or gold

http://www.gammelgura.se



These users thanked the author RogerHaggstrom for the post (total 2): Durero (Tue May 31, 2022 10:16 am) • Robbie_McD (Sun May 22, 2022 7:35 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2022 11:57 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 8:35 pm
Posts: 2658
Location: Austin, Texas
First name: Dan
Last Name: Smith
City: Round Rock
State: TX
Zip/Postal Code: 78681
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I finally got a wide wet spray pattern out of my HVLP gun.
I had a Husky regulator at the end of my hose.
I dropped it yesterday and broke the gauge. Upon inspection, the regulator was just a ball valve.
So, adjusting it to 20 psi just cut the air flow.
I used the compressor regulator set to about 20 psi today and I can get a wide wet coat spraying lacquer.
I found that I no longer need to thin the lacquer. I also discovered why a large air tank is required.
I need to let the compressor recharge after 30 seconds. Mine has an 8 gallon tank.
Total game changer for me.

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah



These users thanked the author dzsmith for the post (total 5): Kbore (Mon Jul 24, 2023 4:13 pm) • bcombs510 (Tue May 31, 2022 10:27 am) • Robbie_McD (Tue May 31, 2022 7:47 am) • Sasamat&Trimble (Mon May 30, 2022 2:38 pm) • Chris Pile (Mon May 30, 2022 12:12 pm)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2022 10:30 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:21 am
Posts: 3288
First name: Brad
Last Name: Combs
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
dzsmith wrote:
I finally got a wide wet spray pattern out of my HVLP gun.
I had a Husky regulator at the end of my hose.
I dropped it yesterday and broke the gauge. Upon inspection, the regulator was just a ball valve.
So, adjusting it to 20 psi just cut the air flow.
I used the compressor regulator set to about 20 psi today and I can get a wide wet coat spraying lacquer.
I found that I no longer need to thin the lacquer. I also discovered why a large air tank is required.
I need to let the compressor recharge after 30 seconds. Mine has an 8 gallon tank.
Total game changer for me.


This looks interesting to me. So the compressor is set to 20 psi, the gun airflow knob is fully opened, and no regulator. Is that right?

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2022 3:30 pm 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 12971
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
First name: Hesh
Last Name: Breakstone
City: Ann Arbor
State: Michigan
Country: United States
Status: Professional
Posting to push the spam down the thread stack, forgive me please.

_________________
Ann Arbor Guitars


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2022 3:42 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 1:11 pm
Posts: 2335
Location: Spokane, Washington
First name: Pat
Last Name: Foster
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
I do something similar to Michael on my backs. I fit the braces into the linings first, picking spots along the linings where I can make clean cuts with respect to the kerfs, and use a flush cut saw to match the height of the brace ends to the depth of the reliefs. Using double-sided tape I stick the back onto the braces. Then I remove the back with the braces and place index blocks with gobars snug up against the braces. With the blocks precisely indicating the locations of the braces, they'll fit into the reliefs precisely. I remove the double-sided tape and glue the braces to the back. This way, I can eliminate a lot of trial and error and I think I get a better fit.

I got the idea from some of the classical builders of old (I think Romanillos, who just passed away did it like this), but they glued the back onto the braces and sides at the same time with hide glue, then afterwards heated the backs from the outside to set the glue. Evidence for that way of doing it shows up where there's discoloration across the backs where the braces are, and around the perimeter, from the heat.

Attachment:
torresa.jpeg


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
formerly known around here as burbank
_________________

http://www.patfosterguitars.com



These users thanked the author Pat Foster for the post (total 5): Kbore (Mon Jul 24, 2023 4:15 pm) • Pmaj7 (Mon Oct 03, 2022 10:35 am) • jfmckenna (Sat Jun 04, 2022 7:46 pm) • Robbie_McD (Tue May 31, 2022 7:35 pm) • Hesh (Tue May 31, 2022 4:30 pm)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2022 7:14 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2008 4:01 pm
Posts: 1104
Location: Winfield, IL.
Great tips guys. Keep 'em coming



These users thanked the author StevenWheeler for the post: Hesh (Wed Jun 01, 2022 2:41 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2022 8:46 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 8:35 pm
Posts: 2658
Location: Austin, Texas
First name: Dan
Last Name: Smith
City: Round Rock
State: TX
Zip/Postal Code: 78681
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
bcombs510 wrote:
dzsmith wrote:
I finally got a wide wet spray pattern out of my HVLP gun.
I had a Husky regulator at the end of my hose.
I dropped it yesterday and broke the gauge. Upon inspection, the regulator was just a ball valve.
So, adjusting it to 20 psi just cut the air flow.
I used the compressor regulator set to about 20 psi today and I can get a wide wet coat spraying lacquer.
I found that I no longer need to thin the lacquer. I also discovered why a large air tank is required.
I need to let the compressor recharge after 30 seconds. Mine has an 8 gallon tank.
Total game changer for me.


This looks interesting to me. So the compressor is set to 20 psi, the gun airflow knob is fully opened, and no regulator. Is that right?

Yes, correct. The regulator on the tank is set to 20 psi, no regulator at the gun. Gun airflow knob fully open.
Now I get full air flow at 20 psi.

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah



These users thanked the author dzsmith for the post (total 2): Hesh (Wed Jun 01, 2022 2:41 am) • bcombs510 (Tue May 31, 2022 9:26 pm)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 8:54 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:02 am
Posts: 3227
Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
Most gun regulators are not true pressure regulators. I had to do a bit of research to find a real one. Its not cheap, but it works great. A regulator at the gun is more accurate too because it takes the friction losses of the air hose out of the equation.


Motor Guard Gun Regulator



These users thanked the author Barry Daniels for the post: CraigG (Sun Jun 05, 2022 9:27 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 11:06 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 8:35 pm
Posts: 2658
Location: Austin, Texas
First name: Dan
Last Name: Smith
City: Round Rock
State: TX
Zip/Postal Code: 78681
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Barry Daniels wrote:
Most gun regulators are not true pressure regulators. I had to do a bit of research to find a real one. Its not cheap, but it works great. A regulator at the gun is more accurate too because it takes the friction losses of the air hose out of the equation.


Motor Guard Gun Regulator


Thanks for the link Barry,
I gave up trying to find a real regulator.

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 11:25 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 8:35 pm
Posts: 2658
Location: Austin, Texas
First name: Dan
Last Name: Smith
City: Round Rock
State: TX
Zip/Postal Code: 78681
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
My stupid invention.
I was frustrated with the coin cell always being dead when I used my calipers.
Even though I turned it off, it would turn on if jostled.
I soldered a switch and a AA battery holder to the coil cell contacts. I left slack in the wires so the calipers can be extended.
It is ugly, but has worked for several years.
I have not thrown it into my pond as I usually do with crappy tools.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah



These users thanked the author dzsmith for the post (total 4): Kbore (Mon Jul 24, 2023 4:16 pm) • Hesh (Sun Jun 05, 2022 3:26 am) • Durero (Thu Jun 02, 2022 4:47 pm) • joshnothing (Thu Jun 02, 2022 7:20 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2022 7:03 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2008 3:20 am
Posts: 376
Location: Kapolei HI
First name: Aaron
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Sorry, got a quick vid instead of a pic of my new candling light.
http://youtu.be/fdcw3NxCZj0sw

Edit: here’s a pic of the led light strip in the table saw miter slot.

Attachment:
5B0946D8-B320-4FDB-B720-143C9C127D38.png


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


Last edited by Aaron O on Mon Oct 10, 2022 3:28 pm, edited 2 times in total.


These users thanked the author Aaron O for the post (total 2): Hesh (Mon Jun 06, 2022 3:46 am) • Terence Kennedy (Sat Jun 04, 2022 10:30 pm)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2022 7:49 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 10:44 am
Posts: 6232
Location: Virginia
Aaron O wrote:
Sorry, got a quick vid instead of a pic of my new candling light.
http://youtu.be/fdcw3NxCZj0

Simple and right to the point.



These users thanked the author jfmckenna for the post: Aaron O (Sun Jun 05, 2022 1:16 pm)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2022 11:46 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:44 am
Posts: 5398
First name: colin
Last Name: north
Country: Scotland.
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
No pics, but when nipping off fret ends I angle the cutter to just under the fret end bevel which reduces the time required filing the bevel.
I use 20 degree, so cut at about 15.

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.



These users thanked the author Colin North for the post (total 2): Kbore (Mon Jul 24, 2023 4:17 pm) • Hesh (Wed Jun 08, 2022 12:50 pm)
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2022 9:54 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 10:44 am
Posts: 6232
Location: Virginia
I was thinking of this thread when I was doing inlay yesterday. Make a little masking tape 'fan' on your Dremel and it blows the dust and chips away as you work.

Image



These users thanked the author jfmckenna for the post (total 5): Kbore (Mon Jul 24, 2023 4:17 pm) • Durero (Tue Oct 04, 2022 3:38 pm) • windsurfer (Sun Oct 02, 2022 11:27 am) • Chris Pile (Sun Oct 02, 2022 10:23 am) • Hesh (Sun Oct 02, 2022 10:18 am)
Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 137 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: TripodBob and 48 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com