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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 9:31 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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This is a Delta 50’s vintage overhead pin router.
I use this thing all the time .
the main uses are routing compensated saddle slots in Bridges.
Also I have a jig that I rout the F holes in my archtops Ala Bob Benedetto.
I route the truss rod channels for the Gibson style rods with a jig I made also ala Bob Benedetto
I also use it it’s a pattern route head shapes.
You got a watch out with routers they can be very dangerous you Gotta really have your wits about you and know what you’re doing.Image


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Last edited by Brad Goodman on Sun Sep 04, 2022 9:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 9:35 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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this is a machine I actually made.
When I was 15 years old I took this motor out of my parents washing machine and mounted it on an old table base and hooked up a switch to it and put some mandrels on it and some buffers and it’s been faithful servant for the last 50 years I only had to replace the capacitor once in all that time
Aside from polishing an occasional piece of metal are use it all the time to buff Ebony BridgesImage


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 9:55 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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So this is my guitar buffer. I took an old drill press stand and cut a hole in it
it’s kind of a “rig”but it’s buffed over 100 guitars…
It’s actually got a variable speed motor on it but but I just leave it at one speed
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2023 5:09 am 
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Mahogany
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City: Colorado Springs
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doncaparker wrote:
My stationary power tools, and what I mainly use them for (going around the room):

Sorby Pro Edge. Best power sharpening system I've ever seen. Not everybody's cup of tea. I sharpen just about all edge tools with it.

Jet 17" floor model drill press, on a mobile base. Drilling holes, obviously. I also use a Luthier's Friend on it, which is useful for thicknessing nut and saddle blanks, and profiling some bridges.

ClearVue cyclone dust collector, with 6" PVC pipe going to as many tools as possible. It will suck up a tape measure, but that's not what I use it for. :D

Ridgid hybrid table saw with short Vega fence. Gosh, what don't I use this for? I use it for every sort of straight cut of wood. I cut fret slots with it. I cut kerfs in kerfed lining with it. I cut purfling lines from dyed veneers. I use it a lot. This also houses my router table in the left wing. I have a lift in the router table

, and just use a Porter Cable PC 690. Nothing fancy. The lift is wonderful to have.

DIY 12" disc sander. I bought a used 12" steel disc from someone who "chop shopped" an old Delta sander, then I harvested a cheap motor from a Harbor Freight sander, hooked up a shaft and some pillow blocks, and wham, I have an awesome disc sander. I set it up with the ledge a la Kevin Ryan, so I can do convex curve template sanding with it. Wonderful tool.

DIY 24" powered dish sander. There is a thread here on the OLF with photos and a description of my powered dish sander. It is powered much the same way the 12" sander is, but with an extra shaft for reduction pulleys. Another wonderful tool. No driving the bus for me!!!

Jet 14" bandsaw with riser. Another tool I use for darn near everything. Just a normal bandsaw, used the way bandsaws are used in guitar making.

Delta Rockwell Uniplane. This is new to my shop. I haven't yet incorporated it into my building, but I have high hopes for it. It's a rotary planer with the cutters on the vertical reference surface. It will serve as a jointer, but it can do a lot more. We'll see how it goes.

Pre-Jet Performax ShopPro 25. This is a Mac Daddy drum sander. The drum has pillow blocks on both ends (non-cantilevered), so it is very solid. 25" width capacity, can go as thick as 4" or as thin as 1/32", and as short as 2.25". Everything goes through this to clean up and flatten the faces, and arrive at the right thickness. I can't think of any parts of the guitar that don't go through my drum sander at some point.

Ridgid spindle/belt sander. All concave curves get smoothed out with this spindle sander. I use the belt sander for anything that needs fast stock removal, and/or I don't care how gross a job it is, because the belts are super cheap.

For handheld power tools, I use the much-maligned Bosch Colt for laminate trimmer duties (including in all the normal jigs, like a binding channel cutting tower, and a circle cutting setup with the Bishop Cochran router base). I use a Foredom for Dremel-type tasks, like notching for brace ends and inlay work. I use Festool hand sanders and a Festool dust extractor for sanding. I use a Homestead Finishing QualSpray spray gun and a California Air Tools compressor for spray finishing, as well as a 3M PAPR system for PPE during spray finishing. I use a DeWalt battery powered drill. I bend sides using a Luthier's Bench bending iron, which is wonderful. Everything else is probably a hand tool of some sort.



Nice list. How do you cut purflings from sheet veneer on your table saw? I’m interested in making my own but leery of trying this technique. Using my band saw has resulted in poor thickness control of the thin strips.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2023 6:46 am 
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First name: Don
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I have the table saw set up for cutting veneers right now, so I’ll take some photos this weekend and post them (too tied up with work today). For now, I’ll describe it:

I use a StewMac fret slotting blade, which is perfect because the kerfs are thin (wasting as little stock as possible) and the blade only needs to stick up about 1/16”. I mount a wooden auxiliary fence on the table saw fence. Its purpose is to sit exactly flush to the table of the table saw, which the regular fence won’t. Veneers slip under the regular fence. I use a zero clearance insert on the table saw. After setting the right distance from the blade to the auxiliary fence, I lower the blade below the table and mount a blade capture board to the auxiliary fence, leaving a gap between the blade capture board and the table that is only a little bigger than the thickness of the veneer I am cutting. The edge of the blade capture board that faces me is rounded at the bottom to ease feeding the veneer into the blade. The blade capture board only extends laterally just a quarter inch or so to the left of the blade; if it extends too far, that makes it harder to feed the veneer when you get down to thin strips. I turn on the table saw and raise the blade enough to cut into the blade capture board a bit. Then I’m ready to cut veneer. Just feed it into the blade from the back with the right hand and be ready to pull it out the back with the left hand. The blade is completely covered by the blade capture board, so you can never touch it with your fingers, and kickback is not a thing, because it’s veneer. The strips come out very even and with very little raggedness. I prefer this to cutting the strips with a knife and straight edge. I feel like I have a tendency to hit a grain line the wrong way when I do it by hand.



These users thanked the author doncaparker for the post (total 2): Pmaj7 (Thu Feb 23, 2023 10:36 am) • Robbie_McD (Thu Feb 23, 2023 8:34 am)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2023 12:06 pm 
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With a small 10" bandsaw, I've used one of those long tool hanging magnets from Harbor Freight as a fence with a fine 1/8" blade to get thin strips, the more TPI the better.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2023 12:43 pm 
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CarlD wrote:
With a small 10" bandsaw, I've used one of those long tool hanging magnets from Harbor Freight as a fence with a fine 1/8" blade to get thin strips, the more TPI the better.
Good idea to use a magnetic tool strip as a small fence! What kind of small saw did you find with a steel table?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2023 2:34 pm 
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First name: Carl
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It's a 1949 Craftsman.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2023 8:22 pm 
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CarlD wrote:
It's a 1949 Craftsman.


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Okay, makes sense. Before my time! LOL

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2023 11:22 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Another use I found for the oscillating tool recently is to use it as a carving tool. Rather than "sawing" with the saw blade I used it in a "raking" fashion to nibble off the wood. It is a slower process than using a carving tool, but that is not always a bad thing. It also seems to avoid tear out when carving troublesome grained wood.



These users thanked the author Clay S. for the post: Pmaj7 (Sat Feb 25, 2023 5:51 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2023 12:24 pm 
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OK, as promised, here are photos of the fixtures I use on the table saw to cut veneer sheets into strips for use in purfling.

Here are two photos of the whole shebang put together, front and back:

Attachment:
Veneer strip cutting 1.jpg


Attachment:
Veneer strip cutting 2.jpg


You can see that there is an auxiliary fence that screws to the table saw fence. The purpose of the auxiliary fence is to sit flush on the top of the table saw, because my fence has a small gap at the bottom under which thin veneers can slip. The two knobs hold the blade capture board onto the auxiliary fence, which has threaded inserts at the top. The through holes in the blade capture board are big enough to provide enough adjustment of the space between the blade capture board and the table. I usually stack two thicknesses of veneer under the blade capture board to set the height, knowing I will only cut one thickness at a time.

Here is a closer view of the blade capture board in situ:

Attachment:
Veneer strip cutting 3.jpg


I said earlier that the capture board sticks out laterally only a quarter inch, but on this particular board (which is for cutting 1” strips instead of the thinner strips), it sticks out farther than that. It is important to keep the part that covers the blade to be as small as will work, because having it stick out too far in any direction makes it harder to feed the veneer.

Here is a photo of the setup with the blade capture board removed, so you can see the StewMac fret slotting blade sticking up out of the zero clearance insert:

Attachment:
Veneer strip cutting 4.jpg


Note also the spot on the bottom of the blade capture board, showing where the blade cuts into the board.

Here is a close-up of the blade from the side, showing how far the blade sticks up for cutting veneer, and how flush to the table the auxiliary fence sits:

Attachment:
Veneer strip cutting 5.jpg


As I mentioned above, this is my favorite way of cutting veneer sheets into strips. They come out clean and straight.


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These users thanked the author doncaparker for the post (total 3): Duct Tape (Thu Mar 09, 2023 6:24 pm) • Terence Kennedy (Mon Feb 27, 2023 9:06 pm) • bcombs510 (Sat Feb 25, 2023 5:01 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2023 5:26 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Hi Don,
Nice jig! I have used something similar for cutting plastic laminate sheets.
You might want to consider buying an inexpensive steel toothed (non carbide) plywood cutting blade for slicing veneer strips and save the wear on your fret slotting blade:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-6-1- ... /202035216


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2023 5:44 pm 
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Thanks, Clay. For veneers, I don't use blades like the one to which you linked because the kerf is usually around 1/16" for blades that size. That's about 3 times the size of the kerf made by the StewMac blade. I do, however, use Freud Diablo blades of that size all the time for other woods. For veneers, the stuff is expensive enough where I want to keep the kerfs as tiny as possible. Hence the use of the StewMac blade.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 10:27 am 
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doncaparker wrote:
Thanks, Clay. For veneers, I don't use blades like the one to which you linked because the kerf is usually around 1/16" for blades that size. That's about 3 times the size of the kerf made by the StewMac blade. I do, however, use Freud Diablo blades of that size all the time for other woods. For veneers, the stuff is expensive enough where I want to keep the kerfs as tiny as possible. Hence the use of the StewMac blade.

Nice setup Don. I cut veneers on my Byrnes mini saw using a .022" slitting blade. Pretty low volume so not sure how well it would hold up for higher volumes. I've probably cut about 60' of strips using it and so far still cuts well.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 10:47 am 
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Darrel--

I covet that Byrnes saw! I owned a Proxxon saw like that for a very short time a few years ago, and I did not care for it, so I sold it off. It was both underpowered and not as precise as I was looking for. I am sure the Byrnes saw suffers from neither deficiency. With the StewMac fret slotting blade and some other very thin blades, I can get what I want from my standard table saw, but a smaller work surface would make operations like this a bit easier.

I wanted to mention (but failed to do so above) that, in addition to protecting your fingers, the main point of the blade capture board is to shepherd the veneer through the cut path without it bending and going in unhelpful directions. The veneer is very flexible, and you only want to use your fingers to guide it when they are not close to the blade. Between the auxiliary fence, the zero clearance throat plate, and the blade capture board, the veneer has nowhere to go but forward as you feed it into the blade.



These users thanked the author doncaparker for the post: Pmaj7 (Mon Feb 27, 2023 11:57 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 4:14 pm 
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doncaparker wrote:
Darrel--

I covet that Byrnes saw! I owned a Proxxon saw like that for a very short time a few years ago, and I did not care for it, so I sold it off. It was both underpowered and not as precise as I was looking for. I am sure the Byrnes saw suffers from neither deficiency. With the StewMac fret slotting blade and some other very thin blades, I can get what I want from my standard table saw, but a smaller work surface would make operations like this a bit easier.

I wanted to mention (but failed to do so above) that, in addition to protecting your fingers, the main point of the blade capture board is to shepherd the veneer through the cut path without it bending and going in unhelpful directions. The veneer is very flexible, and you only want to use your fingers to guide it when they are not close to the blade. Between the auxiliary fence, the zero clearance throat plate, and the blade capture board, the veneer has nowhere to go but forward as you feed it into the blade.

Yeah, the Byrnes saw is a piece of art and plenty powerful. I was lucky to stumble on to it cheaply. I am definitely going to incorporate the blade capture board as You've done. Very clever and totally beats my primitive method of holding it down with a skinny push stick.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 10:52 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Chris Pile wrote:
Every time I use my disc sander to rough out the shape of a bone nut I say, "I love power tools".


me too Chris


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2023 1:04 am 
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Little power station in my clean (and warm) room. Dust extraction on the spindle sander is superb. It's actually pretty decent on the disc Sander with a little custom hood I built for it as long as I'm doing small parts. DC on the drill press is so so but doesn't really see that much use. The vacuum patch Bay works great and I have the disc Sander hooked up to the auto power plug on the festool which is swell.

I also have a strong HEPA filter in the room and all the usual (dusty) suspects are on the other side of the door. ImageImage

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