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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 4:36 pm 
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Doing a refret on a wide six string bass, but realized my cauls only cover about 75% of the Fret on the lower end. I always like to use glue when I do a refret, so do you think I should just do it like normal or do it one side at a time??

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 4:43 pm 
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If you're intent on using a press I'd just slightly overradius the frets and then press them in place. the edges should make contact with the sides first and then the middle will be set when you apply pressure.

You could use a hammer too. I've done that with much success. With titebond I just tap them in place and then let the glue get a little dry before I move onto the next one.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 4:48 pm 
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DanKirkland wrote:
If you're intent on using a press I'd just slightly overradius the frets and then press them in place. the edges should make contact with the sides first and then the middle will be set when you apply pressure.

You could use a hammer too. I've done that with much success. With titebond I just tap them in place and then let the glue get a little dry before I move onto the next one.
On a refret? I've never had a refret that I could use a hammer alone.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 4:55 pm 
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I made a 6 string bass once and I ended up making an oversize caul. Made it from three pieces of metal sandwiched together because I couldn't figure out how to cut the scoop in the caul. I could try to dig it up and take a photo if you need that.



These users thanked the author Barry Daniels for the post: Pmaj7 (Sat Aug 21, 2021 5:01 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 5:04 pm 
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Well, surprise number two was that it had an extreme compound radius. 7-16! My client was willing to go half in on a Birkonium fret call set, so that was cool. However they are still standard length.

I will probably just try pressing in the center and let the over radius push the ends in. If it's not looking like it's working well I will probably just do one side at a time.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 6:26 pm 
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Pmaj7 wrote:
DanKirkland wrote:
If you're intent on using a press I'd just slightly overradius the frets and then press them in place. the edges should make contact with the sides first and then the middle will be set when you apply pressure.

You could use a hammer too. I've done that with much success. With titebond I just tap them in place and then let the glue get a little dry before I move onto the next one.
On a refret? I've never had a refret that I could use a hammer alone.

Pat

Then you’re using the wrong hammer. I tried a bunch before I found a 24oz dead-blow is ideal. https://www.amazon.com/Nupla-Strike-Hammer-Yellow-Handle/dp/B003CRHK92/ref=sr_1_38?dchild=1&keywords=NUPLA+STP24&qid=1629588155&sr=8-38


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 6:57 pm 
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Tim Mullin wrote:
Pmaj7 wrote:
DanKirkland wrote:
If you're intent on using a press I'd just slightly overradius the frets and then press them in place. the edges should make contact with the sides first and then the middle will be set when you apply pressure.

You could use a hammer too. I've done that with much success. With titebond I just tap them in place and then let the glue get a little dry before I move onto the next one.
On a refret? I've never had a refret that I could use a hammer alone.

Pat

Then you’re using the wrong hammer. I tried a bunch before I found a 24oz dead-blow is ideal. https://www.amazon.com/Nupla-Strike-Hammer-Yellow-Handle/dp/B003CRHK92/ref=sr_1_38?dchild=1&keywords=NUPLA+STP24&qid=1629588155&sr=8-38


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I don't have a problem actually tapping them in with the hammer, it's the part about them staying in. The slot always seems much wider on a refret.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 8:04 pm 
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As mentioned above, over-arching the fret slightly before hammering in the frets assures a good fit all the way across. I have yet to refret even a 5 string bass, but would like to give it a shot.

Of course, now that I think about it, last year I refretted a guitar I built in 1993 that featured a very wide neck - 2 1/8 wide at the nut. That should be about as wide as a 6 string bass and I simply hammered them in after arching. I used brown hide glue (Franklin) to hold them as it was the 2nd refret and the slots were getting wider.

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These users thanked the author Chris Pile for the post: Pmaj7 (Sat Aug 21, 2021 8:08 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 10:01 pm 
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I’ve made fret pressing cauls out of maple. They work just fine. When they wear out, you either resurface the inside or just make another.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2021 9:23 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Here is the caul I made. It is made to slip into the Stew-Mac adapter. It is held together with rivets. Took about an hour to make it.


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These users thanked the author Barry Daniels for the post: Durero (Fri Aug 27, 2021 3:17 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2021 10:30 am 
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Nice one Barry! I probably would have tried something like that had this not been a compound radius.

Is that just one thick piece of metal and two thin pieces?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2021 11:19 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Pmaj7 wrote:
Is that just one thick piece of metal and two thin pieces?


Yes, except I added a thin brass shim to make the thick middle piece a bit wider to fit the Stew-Mac adapter.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 2:42 pm 
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Well, got'er done! The Birkonium caul set is awesome, thanks Andy! I also decided to spring (npi) for the vise grip style Jaws fret press on the Hesh/Collins recommendation (Chi-Com version. I'm sure the SM is nicer, but 4X the price? Out of stock right now anyways...).

Very nice solution for a refret. I like the way that it holds the fret in tighter during gluing than I think my arbor press can. You can maintain a very consistent clamping pressure on each fret by dialing the screw.

As far as the wide fretboard expanse, that system works totally fine for doing one side at a time. Obviously just don't put too much glue in that could migrate all the way to the other unclamped side.

Pat

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These users thanked the author Pmaj7 for the post: Hesh (Sat Aug 28, 2021 4:51 am)
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