Official Luthiers Forum!

I've got what appears to be a very clean 1936 Gibson L48, (or so I'm told, seems to check out from a cursory survey of the internet.)

The back seam has separated but is nice and tight. And the binding on the top in the waist on the treble side has started to pull away from the body, right where the pickguard used to screw in. The guitar is also missing it's original pickguard, and tailpiece.

Regarding the back, I think I can glue the seam just like I would a top crack. However cleating it will be a challenge as there's no way into the body except through the F-holes. Perhaps this is a good opportunity to use machine head clamp? Or maybe cleats are not necessary as we're not talking about would splitting along grain lines anymore, and the crack has kind of gone as far as it can?

For the binding, I can almost push it back completely into place as it is. Should I worry about doing anything more? I feel like I've heard people say they heat the old binding up before re-gluing it. I'm worried heating it up might start it on fire . Perhaps I'm being dramatic?

Lastly any leads on finding old/appropriate hardware for guitars like this?

If the crack is tight, just work in some Titebond if you can.

Gentle heat is the key on the binding...

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Like a hairdryer?, or maybe an incandescent light bulb?

I used a hair dryer on binding.
Save the heating pad for twisted necks....

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Connor the back crack if it is closed now can be pumped, pushed and released with your fingers to wick in glue. Wash hands first please to prevent glue from carrying dirt into the crack. I would use Titebond original here and I would even consider using some of the colortone dyes mixed with the Titebond to help hide any resulting glue line. This is all provided that the crack is already closed and level. This would be an easy crack and Dave did one just like this yesterday while I was talking at him

For old bindings yes there is a fire risk that is why we use a temp controlled heat gun that we calibrated so we know the actual temp. Gently heat it up and then stick it back. If you don't heat it up and let is expand some back to it's original dimensions it's surely going to pull away again and no I am not calling your Shirley Temp controlled heat guns are available at Amazon, what isn't...

Cool guitar.

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Ann Arbor Guitars

Any suggestions on how warm it should be?

Yep give me until I talk with Dave Monday because the number in my head I want to check with him to make sure I'm accurate. A few degrees too hot and you have a fire so I want to get this correct. What we have our gun set to works perfectly softening and expanding the binding so let me get that number, thanks.

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Ann Arbor Guitars