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 Post subject: Re: What would you do?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2024 12:01 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:15 pm
Posts: 7257
First name: Ed
Last Name: Bond
City: Vancouver
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
There’s always going to be something. Take notes, press on…:)


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 Post subject: Re: What would you do?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2024 8:57 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:50 pm
Posts: 3878
Location: United States
It's actually a matter of three dimensional geometry. The doming of the back makes the edge rise and fall when you profile it. Also, the taper of the body makes the whole line run at a slight angle, so the surface isn't perfectly perpendicular to the edge. Since the liners don't bend well in the vertical direction you have to twist them a bit to get them to follow the line. This ends up opening the joint on the inside in some places.

Part of the issue has to do with the use of a uniform radius dome. Traditional Spanish classical makers used a straight taper; dressing the back edge off on a flat sanding board. In order to get the curve of the dome along the center line to be smooth they used different radii for the back cross braces, and just trimmed the edge down lightly to the proper angle so that there would be no gaps. This allowed them to use solid liners on the back, which helped stiffen up the back edge while it was being worked on. If you try that with the the uniform dome it's just about impossible to get the liners to go in without any gaps. There's also the problem of getting the dome of the back to look right, avoiding a 'dimple' at the waist. When I work on a solera I usually start out with tall liners, trim them to match the rise and fall of the edge, and then trim them to a uniform height before gluing them in.

With enough clamping pressure you can usually get continuous kerfed liners to be 'close enough'. I prefer to use less pressure, and instead simply cut the liners into short sections that can twisty enough to lie well. I put cloth tapes across the sides every three or four inches, and have the cut ends of the liners over the tape, so I'n using 6"-8" lengths of liner. If you'r careful about lining up the ends it won't show. Try to avoid having a joint at the waist, though.



These users thanked the author Alan Carruth for the post: Terence Kennedy (Thu Mar 28, 2024 1:03 pm)
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 Post subject: Re: What would you do?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2024 11:18 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:49 pm
Posts: 953
First name: peter
Last Name: havriluk
City: granby
State: ct
Zip/Postal Code: 06035
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
bobgramann wrote:
The price on these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Anvil-3-4-i ... /302755763 has gone up a bit since I bought a few dozen. They work pretty well for gluing linings. I used to use clothespins (selected for spring strength—not all are manufactured the same), but these are tighter.

When you’re gluing lings to match the profile of the side, you have to break or cut them into smaller pieces. They can’t curve up and down without bulging sideways somewhere.

So THAT's why my kerfed linings bulged. dang, I could learn something every day if I just listened. \\

Thanks!

_________________
Peter Havriluk


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 Post subject: Re: What would you do?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2024 10:17 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 2:53 pm
Posts: 446
Location: Canada
I went with binder clips back in the 1970s and I'm still using most of them today. A few months back I got a look at Linda Manzer's shop and was surprised to see uses the binder clips in her shop.


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