Official Luthiers Forum!

I like fish glue because of its tremendous "tackiness", but Tite-bond contains water and has many of the same advantages. Hide glue is fine too, of course. If my miters are well done, there are no lines where the lines meet with any of these water based glues, but with CA it happens. No matter which glue you use, precise miters are a must.

I haven't tried to intentionally leave the binding or prufling miters unglued, but if you do this on an instrument that will be colored with dyes prior to clear top coats, I can assure you that the dye will seep in between those parts and leave tell tale lines. That is why celluloid binding and welding the joints with acetone makes a lot of sense on such instruments.

Another reason I like fish glue is that if I should get a gap between any of the components of the trim (very unlikely, of course...), it is usually easy to rectify with some heat, a bit of water and a few strategically placed clamps. I find it easier to do this with fish glue than any other glue I have tried.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

I just routed the ends of my first celluloid tortoise wedge - wedge installed first, then routed top & bottom edges to meet bindings/purflings.

I was using a 1/4" spiral downcut bit that' s sharp and cuts clean binding ledges.

I had to climb cut to get a clean cut on the tortoise. I don't know if this is common knowledge or if I'm using the wrong type of bit, but that's what I had to do.

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

I first practice here then go to wedge

fric

John Mayes: What do you use to cut the 45 on the purfling of the binding....??
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

1/16th two cherries chisel

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com