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Tai Fu
PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:26 am 
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Chris Paulick wrote:
I just read an artical in AL #102 by James Ham, "Activating Hide Glue with Steam". This is one of the types he uses(although George's would also work) :
http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Pressuri ... 397&sr=8-1
The artical is about how he uses it to reactivate separated hide glued joints and how he also uses it to to glue upright basses tops and backs with hide glue. In short he sizes the top and lining with HG and let's it dry then clamps it down and uses the 90 degree attachment and goes around the outside of the joint which activates the HG and glues it together. Interesting read which allows you time to set it all up and then glue. Reminds me of how I would tin the joint on my metal body resos first before soldering them together.


I am aware that that was how they glued larger bowed instruments together while still using hide glue. I think they can be done in steps too (necessary if you need to preserve certain alignment). I just thought they used a hot knife or something.

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David Newton
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:40 pm 
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I'm late to this thread I know, but since I'm steaming necks today, why not glorify myself and post a couple of pictures?
It always takes 3 "tries" to steam out a tight neck. Steam it up for several minutes and take it all out of the press-jig and rock the neck to see if any movement is detected.
On a refinished guitar, the finish that has sealed off the heel has to be cut through, and you don't know how deep it has seeped, effectively gluing the heel to the sides, so have a thin knife at hand for some further probing.
Steam it up again for several minutes and repeat the hand flexing.
The third time is usually the charm, popping out with the pressure on the heel.

Image

Image

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Tai Fu
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:49 pm 
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One thing: Leave some space between the fingerboard extension and the wood that is clamped to the body to aid in neck removal... sometimes old finish can become sticky and the heat/steam causes the wood to stock to the finish - nasty business.

Do you use a normal rubber hose for the steam? I used a silicone hose (expensive as hell) because I asked if those rubber hose can withstand 100 degrees, they said no, and they told me to use those silicone hose that can withstand up to 400 C.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

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David Newton
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 1:27 pm 
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Yes, I lined the jig with cork, with about 1/4" space around the fretboard. I keep a few rags handy and try to limit the water leaks, it's the water, not really the steam that gets under the jig.
I use regular 1/4" ID fuel hose, cheap.
I'm trying to regulate the pressure down, you don't need lots, "just right" as they say.

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Tai Fu
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 1:35 pm 
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David Newton wrote:
Yes, I lined the jig with cork, with about 1/4" space around the fretboard. I keep a few rags handy and try to limit the water leaks, it's the water, not really the steam that gets under the jig.
I use regular 1/4" ID fuel hose, cheap.
I'm trying to regulate the pressure down, you don't need lots, "just right" as they say.


Thanks, I found out on the Stella restoration that it only needed a minute of steam at the very most, especially with hide glue (they liquify under steam, whereas PVA still stays gooey but not liquid) so now it's mostly learning to not use too much steam.

I am curious has anyone attempted to reset a neck glued in with PVA based glue, is it any harder? What about epoxy, is there no hope for guitars glued in with epoxy?

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David Newton
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 2:25 pm 
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Tai, the Stella factory was under a permanent "glue restriction policy". Most Stellas can be disassembled with a good shake. bliss
Epoxy will yield to steam. It's the heat. Same with Titebond.
I think hide glue is actually more resistant than the other two.

I just removed the neck of a 1925 Martin 0-18, no sign of any earlier repairs. The neck popped out after 3 minutes of steam, clean as a whistle! Sweet!

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theguitarwhisperer
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 11:09 am 
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Thanx again guys! Good info and examples here.

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