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CharlieT
PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 11:08 am 
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Tim Mullin wrote:
When the mask comes off (scoring around the outline and peeling), the top surface is uncontaminated and exactly the way I prepared it. Other than some possible cleanup around the outline, nothing else touches the top gluing surface.


Tim - how do you accurately score around the frisket film? Are you able to see its edge clearly though the finish? Do you just "free hand" it or do you use some kind of guide for the blade? Thanks.
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Tim Mullin
PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 4:19 pm 
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Location: Shefford, Québec
First name: Tim
Last Name: Mullin
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CharlieT wrote:
Tim Mullin wrote:
When the mask comes off (scoring around the outline and peeling), the top surface is uncontaminated and exactly the way I prepared it. Other than some possible cleanup around the outline, nothing else touches the top gluing surface.


Tim - how do you accurately score around the frisket film? Are you able to see its edge clearly though the finish? Do you just "free hand" it or do you use some kind of guide for the blade? Thanks.

I score with an xacto knife, using a combination of free hand and straight or curved edges. Depending on the color of the wood top, you can usually distinguish the edge of the film quite easily, as the top underneath has not absorbed any lacquer. You can always highlight the edge (prior to finishing) with a sharp pencil that makes it even easier to see a line.
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CharlieT
PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 4:25 pm 
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Tim Mullin wrote:
I score with an xacto knife, using a combination of free hand and straight or curved edges. Depending on the color of the wood top, you can usually distinguish the edge of the film quite easily, as the top underneath has not absorbed any lacquer. You can always highlight the edge (prior to finishing) with a sharp pencil that makes it even easier to see a line.


Makes sense. Thanks Tim!!
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Paul Burner
PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:53 pm 
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Terence Kennedy wrote:
I made this based on stuff I saw on this forum 5 or 6 years ago. The StewMac Dremel base with a radiused table like Tony does. I also do test cuts on scrap to get the right clearance.
This is an old picture, now I usually only leave about a 32nd of finish in place so the ledge is smaller.

Image


Yep - my setup looks almost identical to this.

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Mike OMelia
PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 1:06 pm 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
2 pieces of blue tape to protect finish. Scrape with razor. Or sand both 1/2" x 1" block with 220g. Then lightly chamfer bridge.

Filippo


OK, so I'm installing a bridge on a Uke. And I remembered this thread. So, you scrape the bridge location slightly smaller than the bridge, then, you slightly chamfer the the bottom edges of the bridge to come up over the ridge?

Mike
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