Official Luthiers Forum!

I've got some maple!! Does it matter if it is curly? Because all the maple I have is curly.

Also when you say don't scallop above the intersection do you mean just do a taper on the two upper legs start about 3/4" from the X and go down to nothing at the ends? It won't take much trouble to take them off. And since this guitar will be for a customer I want to minimize future problems.

Also from now on I'll keep those sound hole braces farther back. I always assumed closer was better to keep the edge of the hole strong. I never though about pickups, it's a very good point.

Thanks for the advise guys!

Looks like it's coming along Zeke! Keep the update pictures coming - I love progress pics in build threads. I've got my first commission now too - just waiting on my customer to decide on all the bits and pieces of the build.

_________________
Rob Flindall
Flindall Guitars
http://www.flindallguitars.com
https://www.facebook.com/FlindallGuitars

Curly maple will work.

I start the taper about 1/2" from the intersection and taper down to 1/4" at the lining. Then I cut a scoop in the last inch of the brace leaving the part under the linings at .090".

Check out this old tread for some pics. http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=17118
Don't get caught up in some of the cool patterns, look at how the braces are carved. Start with your brace stock cut to 1/4" wide by 9/16" tall.

Thanks a ton Steve! I see just what you are saying now. I made that X out of pieces 5/16" wide by 3/4" tall. That's what was in the cumpiano book and the only real dimensions I have to go off of. I'll cut this X off and make it 1/4" by 9/16" as you suggested. Boy that's gonna be a lightly braced top! But I'm sure it'll sound better. I really appreciate the info.

So I got to planing the x off and was thinking so I did some measurements and the scallops on the upper x, well also the lower ones, were not all that deep if the x was goin to be 9/16" tall. So I did some planing and got the existing braces to the proper height, then tapered the upper arms down and re scalloped the lower arms. Now I know they are still a little wider than the 1/4" but they are much lighter now. If this will work it'll save me from having to cut them completely off. And next time I'll go with 1/4" braces.

I can tell a HUGE difference in the tap of the top now. This thing is going to sound fantastic! It's by far my lightest braced guitar yet. I'm very excited to hear it but also worried since the braces are so much lighter than what ive done previously. But after hearing and seeing Steve's guitars in St Louis I'm definitely trusting your advise.

Cumpiano has updates on his website. He uses much smaller braces now than when the book was published.

_________________
http://www.CostaGuitars.com
PMoMC

thanks for telling me now tony! Where we're on builds 1,2,3? What a slacker!!!
Haha

I'll check out his website and mark out the numbers in the book with the correct ones! I've been in his site numerous times but somehow missed that part. Thanks tony. Oh by the way how does the bracing look to you?

Tony can you post the web address to this update?

_________________
Doug

Don't let fear or common sense stop you from trying to build something

I have not seen where Cumpiano has changed any of his SS brace sizes in the updates to his book. They must be well hidden. Maybe he has talked about it in his blog somewhere which would explain why I can't find it, would be hard to wade through all his posts to find it.

I agree. I've been looking since Tony mentioned it but I can't seem to find it either. Maybe tony has just sent us on a wild goat chase

I got the fretboard slotted! It's African blackwood. I talked my friend into using it over ebony. I don't know why I do that to myself. It's such a pain to work with, but I love everything else about it.
It's times like these I wish I had a table saw set up


And all slotted

I don't remember where I saw it, but I know it to be true. Might have been during a conversation. I can't find a link either.
Your braces will look better when you get rid of the scallop above the x intersection. Otherwise, they looked good but it's hard to tell from pics, dontcha know.

_________________
http://www.CostaGuitars.com
PMoMC

Zeke, you might really enjoy John Mayes' Advanced Voicing DVD. Very helpful in providing models to listen to as you're voicing. Assessing whether or not the bracing looks appropriate can get you in the ball park, but then the fun part is tailoring it with your ears.

I also had Kent Everett's voicing DVD, but don't remember it too well. John's is the one that really made an impression on me. Robbie O'Brien sells his Online Acoustic Guitar Building chapters ala carte. I wonder if his chapter on the top and voicing could be helpful? I haven't seen it

FWIW, it's very easy to overbuild a dread. A lot of guys use an X that's around 1/2" tall and 1/4" wide for more responsive ones. Santa Cruz starts at .68" tall (1/4" wide) and work it down from there as it needs. And I'm going to attach some pics of an Olson.